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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Re: K&N Filter + Rejetting /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1090351699 Message started by Autif on 07/20/04 at 12:28:19 |
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Title: Re: K&N Filter + Rejetting Post by Autif on 07/20/04 at 12:28:19 I have a 2000 Suziki Savage with everything stock, except the rear tire being 140/90-15. I ride in the North East (Massachusetts) region of the US from April to October. So varying temperatures. I do not plan to change my exhaust this season. But will do it next season. However, I want to change the stock air filter to the K&N air filter. The links below are the closest to what I will be doing. http://www.heise-workstations.de/ls650/Fragen/messages/31174.html http://www.heise-workstations.de/ls650/Fragen/messages/27069.html http://www.heise-workstations.de/ls650/Fragen/messages/23890.html One says no change required, the other two say rejetting is required. My questions are as follows: 1) Will the rejetting be required. Assuming a yes 2) What to do with the "white spacer"? (keep in mind it is a 2000 model) 3) What size main jet should be used? (it is a 2000 model) 4) Will the idling speed need to be fixed? How do I fix it? 5) Is this a good idea? Or should I just wait until next year and do the exhaust + air filter + rejet in one step only? I am curious that may be with the air filter + rejet, I will be happy enough with the performance that I will not have to do the exhaust at all. I will probably go with the supertrapp then. Raask is too loud and too expensive. Others are just loud :-( I do not want to out perform a bike like the BMW F650 (liquid cooled single cylinder so kinda comparable), but just enough that the vibrations go away at about 55-60 mph. So the steps: 1) change the filter 2) change the main jet needle 3) adjust the idlling speed Am I missing anything? All help will be appreciated. Regards Autif |
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Title: Re: K&N Filter + Rejetting Post by Greg_650 on 07/20/04 at 12:48:45 Autif wrote:
Whoa...don't know where to start with all this, but I'll give it a shot since I too have a 2000. First, people confuse a K&N Pod and an Insert filter, and I'm not sure which one you mean. If either of those is what you plan to change with EVERYTHING else remaining STOCK....NO jetting is REQUIRED. Why? Because those filters won't change the overall airflow with a stock exhaust pipe and muffler. The pipe is where the bottleneck is. However, if you want to change the backfires, change the jets anyway....as discussed in other posts on this forum. Get a #150 or #152.5 main jet and fix the idle screw mixture....see the topic about "Backfiring". NOW....if you want your 2000 to be setup like mine with a K&N Pod filter and a SuperTrapp or Jardine exhaust then you will want to get a 152.5 main. If you decide to go with a Pod and a Raask, you'll want a #155 (maybe even a #157.5, like I plan on getting next winter) So, since I know that a stock 2000 tends to fart, go ahead and get the #152.5 to fix that, and then you'll be ready for the Jardine. The K&N filter, in any case, is better than stock because it is reuseable...you can't clean the stock one. Hope that helps. |
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Title: Re: K&N Filter + Rejetting Post by Greg_650 on 07/20/04 at 13:01:45 Autif wrote:
Oh Pooh :D I forgot the white spacer thing....most people just remove it because they can't figure out a better option. Why? Because the needle jet and the jet needle have a different profile than in the earlier models ('86-93) and the entire carb has been changed since those years. The needle has been leaned out.... I found that just "removing it" does really reduce the backfires, but it also tends to make the low end "over rich". It seemed to raise the needle too much. My solution? I scrounged (really) around and found one that is 1/2 the thickness of stock....anything gas tolerant will do if it fits the needle and the clip. Go to the hardware store and dig for something about 1/16" thick and try it. Won't cost over 50 cents to try. |
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Title: Re: K&N Filter + Rejetting Post by Autif on 07/21/04 at 07:27:59 Interesting! Thanks for the info Greg! What about the adjusting the idling speed? Will that be required when I do just the air filter element? What about when I install the Supertrapp exhaust? |
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Title: Re: K&N Filter + Rejetting Post by klx650sm2002 on 07/21/04 at 07:59:04 I bought a load of main and main air jets and they have given me a couple of weeks of fun, nearly there !!! Clive W |
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Title: Re: K&N Filter + Rejetting Post by Greg_650 on 07/21/04 at 08:53:56 Autif wrote:
Changing the air filter probably won't do much, but the Trapp might....it is simple anyway. On the left side. If you richen the main jet, it has little effect on idle speed. It only effects the top half of the throttle range. |
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Title: Re: K&N Filter + Rejetting Post by tekxtc on 12/03/04 at 13:31:23 Now that the riding season is over (in the NE), may be i will start tinkering. I was reading thru the Clymer, It talks about how to take the exhaust out: remove the right footpegs, remove the exhaust nuts from the engine block and rear muffler and off it comes. I am assuming that putting it back will be the similar. About rejetting: I was going thru a lot of posts http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=RubberSideDown;action=display;num=1087407562 http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1098869040 and many many more. Neither the clymer nor the posts tell how to open the carburetor to change the main jet. From the bottom or from the top? Will the tank or airbox or both have to come out? Or god forbind the entire carb has to be taken out? Also, does the jet needle need to be replaced? Or will just replacing the main jet with 155 or 157.5 will do? What about the idle mixture? That should also be made slightly richer right? So counterclockwise is it? How many turns? May be the response to this be also put in the tech section. |
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Title: Re: K&N Filter + Rejetting Post by Greg_650 on 12/04/04 at 13:17:12 tekxtc wrote:
Take a look in the Tech Corner at the topic concerning Carb Specs. You'll find pictures already there. Hope that helps. PS - the tech corner isn't intended to be a place to post questions....it is supposed to be a reference section. |
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Title: Re: K&N Filter + Rejetting Post by tekxtc on 12/06/04 at 09:03:54 Greg: I beleive you are talking about the following page: http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1098869040 This thread does not answer my questions. And I thought that a lot of people would be asking the same question: what all do I have to do in the carburettor area when I change my exhaust pipe :-) specifically: 1) how to open the carburettor to change the main jet? From the bottom? From the top? Or total disassembly as clymer says. I believe it should be from the bottom, but I am not sure. 2) I understand that the main jet needs to be replaced with a new one, but should the needle be also replaced with something which will allow more fuel (like the main jet). 3) Should the idle mixture screw (on the right hand side under the brass) need to be adjusted to make the mixture a little richer than stock? Let me know what you think! Thanks Autif |
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Title: Re: K&N Filter + Rejetting Post by Savage_Rob on 12/06/04 at 11:19:49 tekxtc wrote:
1) The main jet is accessed by removing the float bowl (bottom). There are four screws. Access to some of them is difficult and will require an offset screwdriver. It may require removal of the carb if the screws are locked but mine didn't. Replacing these with stainless allen screws will make subsequent removals easier. 2) The seat and tank will need to be removed to access the needle through the top of the carb. The needle does not need to be replaced but the Dynojet kit's needle does offer several notches for adjusting the position. The stock needle does not. If you use the stoock needle, it is recommended that you replace the white nylon spacer with a stainless washer of roughly 1/3 to 1/2 the thickness of the original (or file the original down to accomplish the same thing). If you use the DJ needle, you can use the 4th notch from the end and use the original white nylon spacer. Also replace the top four access screws with stainless allen screws. 3) You will need to adjust the idle mixture and there are a number of threads both on this board and on Bert Heise's board (where you originally posted these questions) with advice on this. I believe the mixture varies quite a bit between bikes so it's largely subjective. I say to go for what sounds and feels right to you but adjust it after the bike has warmed up. Anyone else, please feel free to add to this or correct me. |
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Title: Re: K&N Filter + Rejetting Post by Ed L. on 12/06/04 at 16:41:02 That sounds about right, I just went through it all on my '02 over the last couple of weeks. The biggest problem I had was removing the left rear screw from the bottom of the carb when rejetting to a 152.5 main. Had to take the top of the battery box off and grab the screw head with a miniture pair of channel locks from sears. Could only get about 1/16 of a turn on it at a time. Had to remove the tool box mount and side covers to get in there. Cover the starter motor with a towel so the screws can't bounce under it, they will end up under there if given a chance. Then all you will need is a freeflowing exhaust and you will be ready to go. Good luck on it |
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Title: Re: K&N Filter + Rejetting Post by klx650sm2002 on 12/07/04 at 01:16:22 Could You tell this English man, what is a channel lock, thanks. Clive W :D |
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Title: Re: K&N Filter + Rejetting Post by Kropatchek on 12/07/04 at 03:04:08 Channel Lock = Duckbill Pliers @ Ed L , suggest you put some Allen screws to hold the carb. bowl. Greetz Kropatchek ;D |
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Title: Re: K&N Filter + Rejetting Post by klx650sm2002 on 12/07/04 at 04:00:03 Sorry still no sure, would they be vice grips ??? Clive W :D |
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Title: Re: K&N Filter + Rejetting Post by Savage_Rob on 12/07/04 at 05:41:05 klx650sm2002 wrote:
http://www.channellock.com/images/BPlogo.jpg |
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Title: Re: K&N Filter + Rejetting Post by tekxtc on 12/07/04 at 09:27:21 Thanks for the responses!! I have noticed that in any and all the projects that I work on, the only hard thing is to remove the screws, nuts and bolt. To be carefull not to strip them. Rest is comparitively easy. Will work on these over the winter or may be early spring just before riding season. Will wake up the thread again if I run into problems. Hopefully not :-) Regards Autif |
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Title: Re: K&N Filter + Rejetting Post by Ed L. on 12/07/04 at 15:56:04 Thanks for the tip, I did use allen head bolts when I put the carb back together, just forgot to include it on my last post. I'm still looking for metric allenhead bolts in stainless, allen head metric stainless is hard to find in here in the states. Ride Safe |
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Title: Re: K&N Filter + Rejetting Post by klx650sm2002 on 12/08/04 at 05:28:13 Savage_Rob thanks for the pic of the channellocks I understand now thanks again Clive W :D |
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Title: Re: K&N Filter + Rejetting Post by Savage_Rob on 12/08/04 at 07:35:16 Ed L. wrote:
I found mine at Ace Hardware. In fact, they also carry chrome, which is sweet but expensive. As a side note, I finally got some decent weather and took her out on the freeway for the first time since I rejetted her. She has the MAC muffler, K&N stock replacement filter, a Mikuni 155 main, a DJ needle set at the 4th notch and the stock white spacer installed. Anyway, she still farts occasionally but I find it to be endearing. The main thing is that I saw a really noticeable increase in mid to top end power (not to mention sounding good). I was quite impressed with how much better she feels at the 60-75 MPH range. I still prefer 60-65 but I took her up to 80 and she really felt a lot better than she did at 75 before the filter/muffler/jet changes. Bottom line: it's well worth it. |
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Title: Re: K&N Filter + Rejetting Post by Ed L. on 12/08/04 at 15:41:10 Can't agree more on what a difference the rejetting and new exhaust makes. My '02 runs like a raped ape with the 152.5 main, K+M stock type air filter and sportster muffler. A 155 main with a less restrictive muffler must make you bike really haul a-ss. ;D Ride Safe |
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