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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> rattlecan painting /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1113248811 Message started by sunny on 04/11/05 at 12:46:51 |
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Title: rattlecan painting Post by sunny on 04/11/05 at 12:46:51 in WD's thread about choosing a paint scheme, he mentions rattlecan black. my question is: what is the entire step by step process for doing this? i'm going for a flat black look on a budget. |
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Title: Re: rattlecan painting Post by Lee on 04/11/05 at 13:13:19 Here's a good place to start: http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm |
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Title: Re: rattlecan painting Post by WD on 04/11/05 at 13:17:46 GS resources never steered me wrong when I had a GS750T. Those guys know their stuff, following his ideas on rattlecan painting should be fine. -WD |
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Title: Re: rattlecan painting Post by sluggo on 04/11/05 at 14:04:13 Lee wrote:
great post. gives me the confidence to do it my self, that and the info from wd on how to fix the baseball sized dent in tank.. should be sweet. i'll just have to come up with another fuel tank so i can still ride while the paint job is happening. |
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Title: Re: rattlecan painting Post by Paladin on 04/11/05 at 15:41:54 wouldn't it be easier to get another tank and paint it? Only one tank switching job instead of two. edit -- unless you are talking of some sort of non-stock tank for use while the stock tank is being painted, like a one gallon gas can duct-taped to the frame. |
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Title: Re: rattlecan painting Post by sluggo on 04/11/05 at 18:37:29 Paladin wrote:
that though had actually crossed my mind. lol bailing wire and duct tape two of the best inventions ever |
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Title: Re: rattlecan painting Post by WD on 04/11/05 at 18:46:54 A Troybilt rototiller gas tank fits beautifully...at least the 8 horse tanks do... ;D For popping the dent out, I think I have found the perfect solution. The hubcap remover for our Celica fits in the tank and the head is angled just right to back the body hammer. Micro-dolly!!! Beats the model rocket ignitor method. Not as cool if you screw up, but, at the same time, your tank stays in one piece. -WD Use a good acrylic enamel for the clearcoats. For a flat black paint job, I'd recommend black rustoleum primer. Buy a bunch, flat black tins "go stale" pretty quickly. Flat paints have a nasty tendency to "chalk up". |
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Title: Re: rattlecan painting Post by gitarzan on 04/11/05 at 20:08:00 sluggo wrote:
Don't forget Nylon Cable ties. "The Baling Wire of the 21st Century." |
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Title: Re: rattlecan painting Post by WD on 04/11/05 at 21:26:13 I should have read the whole directions earlier.There are some serious non-nos in those directions. :P 1) Paint stripper is readily flammable, and the concentrated vapors are highly EXPLOSIVE. The stuff will eat through your skin, and plain water doesn't dilute it very well. Hit it with cream type waterless handcleaner first, the lanolin seems to bind the corrosives in the stripper, soap and warm water will then take it right off. 2) NEVER wet sand body filler. It absorbs water, come syummer, you'll have blistered paint. 3) Body filler only needs to be sanded to 320 grit, maximum. Any smoother, you ought as well try to stick paint to oiled chrome. If you have deep scratches or air bubbles, fill them with spot/glazing putty, and follow with high build primer as needed. 4) You can let a gas tank sit for a month, to air out, and still have it explode. Flush the tank with water. Plug the filler neck with a plumbing test plug, the fuel tap holes with corks. 5) Follow the directions on your can of paint to the letter. If it says recoat within 2 hours or wait two weeks, 2 hours and five minutes is too long, the new coat WILL blister/wrinkle/peel the preceeding coat(s). I've made all of those mistakes. Watching a beautiful paint job wrinkle, grey out because you rushed it and trapped solvents, or blister because the body filler got wet will make you physically sick. Lacquers look really nice. Bad idea for a ridden bike. The stuff is real soft, and is not fuel safe. Spill more than a drop or two of gas, and you're repainting the tank. Since the tank now doesn't match the rest of the tins, you're repainting them too. And, unless you use the same batch lot of color coat...the pieces won't be color matched. I like doing rattle can jobs on my bike. If I get tired of the "look du jour" $8 gets me a "new" bike. I use tractor paints on mine. Tough stuff. Tricky ro spray though, you have to heat the can to about 85 degrees F for the paint to flow smoothly. Heat on the counter in a pan of hot water. -WD |
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Title: Re: rattlecan painting Post by Jake on 04/14/05 at 15:10:05 I am in the midst of all the prep work on my 88 Savage. Airplane stripper is the neatest paint removin' cancer causin' stuff I have ever seen!! Did everything outdoors and just used air compressor to blow the paint off! Depressingly I found some through rust on the top side of the rear fender due to the reinforcement pieces on the underside of the fender. It appears that the metal sandwich there held enough moisture to go clear through. It will bondo easy enough, but the real question is how to sand/derust/clean/prime the underside of that fender. You could never get in all the cracks and crevises to get all the rust out, even with a sandblaster (which I do not have). I did my best to power brush the rust out, but I can't get it all. DO I just prime the cr#p out of the nooks and crannies, paint, or just under coat the bare metal? |
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Title: Re: rattlecan painting Post by WD on 04/15/05 at 00:59:09 Buy a can of rust converter and treat both sides of the fender. When you go to patch the hole inthe fender, make sure you back the repair with window screen, hardware cloth or fiberglass. Aluminum body tape works okay, but the stuff you can bury in the filler is better. Undercoat the fender with the best stuff you can get your hands on, although, Wal-mart or related stuff works fine. -WD |
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Title: Re: rattlecan painting Post by TVRacer on 04/15/05 at 06:49:31 Jake, submerge the part with the rust in some vinegar for 24 hours. The rust will be gone. Tom |
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