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Message started by Greg_650 on 09/25/05 at 07:40:09

Title: Making a baffle
Post by Greg_650 on 09/25/05 at 07:40:09

My Raask pipe came with a baffle (they called it experimental), and after a few rides, I burned it up :P

The original was built out of a steel screen material that was formed into a tube shape and packed with fiberglas.  After a while all the fiberglas burned up I ended up with a pipe that kinda had a swish sound coming out.  My Raask had a "lisp"

So I have created the "core" of a new baffle.  This one is nearly the same length as the original and made from 3/8" rod.  The pin is to center the baffle end in the pipe.

This makes the pipe have a deeper sound, but does anyone have suggestions on how I can modify this for more sound reduction AND improved performance?  All thoughts welcome....

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b277/gmdinusa/RaaskBaffle01web.jpg

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by Paladin on 09/25/05 at 10:56:43

What are we dealing with here?   The Raask appears to be a straight pipe, 1.75" OD, 1.5" ID.  Is there anything inside or is it clear?  If clear.....
http://savage.andruschak.net/FTP/baffle.jpg
My fishtail has a baffle, but was, according to the spouse, a bit loud.  To obtain a sound reduction I too am making an internal baffle.  My pipe is close to a 1.5" ID going back quite a few inches.  I'm starting with a copper plumbing piece, a 1.5" to 1" reducer.  I was using an aluminum mesh cone on the inside, but that is not working.  I'm going to be soldering on a piece of 1" copper pipe, maybe 12 inches or so, and a second reducer, making it a 15" long dogbone shape.  Drill lots of holes in the 1" pipe and maybe wrap it with a fiberglass mat.

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by Mambo on 09/25/05 at 23:37:23

To improve perf you must find where to place the 1st part of the baffle.
In fact the exhaust gaz must "bounce" on the baffle, then a wave will return to the valves and then bounce again just before the valves will open...
So you'll have some "pump" effect (that suck gaz out of the cylindre).

The easiest way to do do a baffle is to use 2 washers and a small tube.
Sold the washers to the ends of the tube (the washers's inside holes must fit the tube), and drill holes everywhere in the tube.


Then, put it in you exhaust and make some test to see how much deep you should put it in to have bests perfs.


Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by Greg_650 on 09/26/05 at 06:20:59

Okay.  These are some ideas.  I was wondering about drilling holes in the rod and adding some washers to it.

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by vroom1776 on 09/26/05 at 09:10:40

What about steel wool instead of fiberglass?  Shouldbn't be getting any moisture in there...

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by WD on 09/26/05 at 19:55:26

Doesn't matter what you pack it with, it degrades and blows out in little dust particles. Kind of cool at night, quite the spark show. Well, unless you can get your hands on some Navy surplus or USFS surplus woven asbestos firefighting blanket. I DO have some of those squirreled away somewhere from my wildfire supression days.

At least you don't have a Vance and Hines, Hard Chrome, or Roadhouse pipe...the baffles have a tendency to shoot out at a high rate of speed. Usually with Kojak behind you.  >:(

Swing by a shop that carries V-Twin Mfg parts, you can order decent baffles, cheaper than you can make them.
-WD

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by vroom1776 on 09/27/05 at 08:13:01


WD wrote:


At least you don't have a Vance and Hines, Hard Chrome, or Roadhouse pipe...the baffles have a tendency to shoot out at a high rate of speed. Usually with Kojak behind you.  >:(


I've heard of that happening on the occasional HK pipe.  Hasn't happened to me on my V* 1100 yet...  Luck?

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by klx650sm2002 on 09/28/05 at 03:01:27

When I go for the annual M.O.T. test I fit an insert in the end of the silencer to quieten KLX down a bit.
I make these out of aluminium, machining the o.d. to fit i.d. (50.8mm on KLX) of silencer exit, with a 12mm hole in the insert (Bellmouth shape on engine side) KLX is quiet as a church mouse.
The insert I use for normal road use is 40 mm and makes quite a difference.
This might work on the Savage,34mm hole (with a radius on the engine side).
More to come in a day or so.

Clive W  :D

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by savage777 on 09/28/05 at 10:26:45

LOUD  pipes save lives!!!!  LOL

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by Greg_650 on 10/02/05 at 07:57:40


WD wrote:
Doesn't matter what you pack it with, it degrades and blows out in little dust particles. Kind of cool at night, quite the spark show. Well, unless you can get your hands on some Navy surplus or USFS surplus woven asbestos firefighting blanket. I DO have some of those squirreled away somewhere from my wildfire supression days.

At least you don't have a Vance and Hines, Hard Chrome, or Roadhouse pipe...the baffles have a tendency to shoot out at a high rate of speed. Usually with Kojak behind you.  >:(

Swing by a shop that carries V-Twin Mfg parts, you can order decent baffles, cheaper than you can make them.
-WD


Those are some ideas....

Of course, I could buy one cheaper, but then again considering that I'm getting paid to make mine, and the materials are free, I'd say it is economically prudent to make one anyway.... ;D

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by Greg_650 on 10/02/05 at 08:04:44


vroom1776 wrote:


I've heard of that happening on the occasional HK pipe.  Hasn't happened to me on my V* 1100 yet...  Luck?


I know of one other Savage (once in this forum) that blew out the Raask baffle too.  The bad part is that IF the baffle is installed, it also retains the regular packing material in the pipe with the same bolt.  If the baffle blows out, you can also lose the other packing.

As Raask told me, the baffle was experimental (they wouldn't sell it unless I understood that)....and now I'm looking to make a better sounding one...

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by Greg_650 on 10/02/05 at 08:05:56


savage777 wrote:
LOUD  pipes save lives!!!!  LOL


Only so long as I don't get shot because they heard me coming  ;D

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by Savage_Rob on 10/02/05 at 14:26:41


savage777 wrote:
LOUD  pipes save lives!!!!  LOL

Except that cagers usually don't hear you unless you are either beside or in front of them.  Sometimes moving alongside one startles 'em into making jerky lurching movements.  It's really depressing that they're licensed.

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by savage777 on 10/03/05 at 12:06:41

OH I know only too well..... I just listened to that every day from my days workin at an H.D dealer.

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by Greg_650 on 10/14/05 at 07:56:23

How do I know that I have enough back pressure?

If my bike is running and I put my hand over the exhaust opening (while it is still cool), I can clearly feel the suction of the back pressure after the exhaust valve closes.

Any ideas?

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by Max_Morley on 10/15/05 at 23:50:35

Hey Greg, I have the baffle that came in my RAASK. also the last foot or so I cut off of it when I decided to use it as a head pipe for a HD FXD glasspac. it was shown as a Screamin Eagle set but I think it may have been misrepresented. In any case I am happy with the looks and sound. The nice part is it slides between the inner and outer tubes on the RAASK so doesn't need a clamp. I had a heat shield from a sportster muffler I tried that is held on with 2 hose clamps, I just got a larger one and went around the Savage bracket to hold the muffler in position.  Used my SuperTrapp heat shield to provide some shielding when I'm stopped. works great for me and isn't too loud (rated at 80 dbA on the HD), and has to have less restriction than the stock one. It has a center baffle that directs the exhaust through the packing, but fair sized holes in the mesh. Bottom line it (the baffle and last foot of pipe) is yours if you want it. Let me know. Max

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by klx650sm2002 on 10/16/05 at 03:03:28

IMO Back pressure is a bad thing if you are looking for performance.

Clive W  :D

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by torque on 10/16/05 at 06:25:42


klx650sm2002 wrote:
IMO Back pressure is a bad thing if you are looking for performance.

Clive W  :D


im with u on that one ,theres no need to restrict air flow, if u dont have to for noise reasons.

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by Greg_650 on 10/16/05 at 09:56:01


Max_Morley wrote:
Hey Greg, I have the baffle that came in my RAASK. also the last foot or so I cut off of it when I decided to use it as a head pipe for a HD FXD glasspac. it was shown as a Screamin Eagle set but I think it may have been misrepresented. In any case I am happy with the looks and sound. The nice part is it slides between the inner and outer tubes on the RAASK so doesn't need a clamp. I had a heat shield from a sportster muffler I tried that is held on with 2 hose clamps, I just got a larger one and went around the Savage bracket to hold the muffler in position.  Used my SuperTrapp heat shield to provide some shielding when I'm stopped. works great for me and isn't too loud (rated at 80 dbA on the HD), and has to have less restriction than the stock one. It has a center baffle that directs the exhaust through the packing, but fair sized holes in the mesh. Bottom line it (the baffle and last foot of pipe) is yours if you want it. Let me know. Max


Hey Max.  Where have you been?  :)

So you wacked it off and added a muffler?  Interesting.  I'll think about your offer, but the lines of the Raask are just so sweet and clean....but no doubt, it is loud.  People don't like to ride behind me :) but I've been behind a lot of v-twins that were louder.  I think that it is the RPM differences that makes it seem so loud.  I wish that I could get some of the sound of the Trapp or Mac while still keeping the improved flow of the Raask....and the chrome quality, too.  We'll see....

Hey, I guess that it's getting to be more like winter up here, now.  This is our 4th season to experience here, so I guess we'll find out.  The rains are here again, finally, and I suppose there'll be snow moving into your area soon (and both sides of Portland).  Is that about right?  At any rate, let's try to set up another Thumper Cafe ride with the FSSNOC for next spring.  Sound like an idea?  Maybe we can get the group to return when we can all get together....

....which reminds me, I had a discussion with Jack (#000) and he assured me that you'll get your "Thumper Bucks" for getting Julie and I in the group.  Don't forget.  You should get an $8 discount, I believe.

Anyway, keep in touch.  You now my direct address.  I still want to see your famous "Bagger".

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by Greg_650 on 10/16/05 at 10:02:14


klx650sm2002 wrote:
IMO Back pressure is a bad thing if you are looking for performance.

Clive W  :D


Okay, now you're my guru on this flow stuff, so keep me straight here.  When you say performance, are you talking low end torque or horsepower?  I thought back pressure helped with the low end, which I really like.  But I also like the fact that I blow by my spouse with her Trapp once I get her wound up (have to keep the spouse in her place, ya know).  So, I figured that back pressure was good and bad.  What's the happy medium?

BTW - that exhaust port gets adjusted this winter  8)

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by Greg_650 on 10/16/05 at 10:05:17


torque wrote:


im with u on that one ,theres no need to restrict air flow, if u dont have to for noise reasons.


Point noted by you and Clive.  But isn't some needed to get the optimum efficiency?  If you didn't care about noise, would there be better performance with no pipe at all?

...of course, I'd hate to burn my mud flap, too  ;D

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by klx650sm2002 on 10/17/05 at 06:23:33

As a general rule go for minimum back pressure and rejet to suit.

As far as I know Your Raask is double skinned with an i.d. of 38mm at the head. Question is there a step from 38 to something bigger before the end of the pipe ?
If so what is the larger i.d. ? and how far from the head ?(measured along the pipe center line). Also how far from this step to the pipe end ?

Clive W  :D

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by klx650sm2002 on 10/17/05 at 06:26:44

Hey Greg

Exhaust port, measure twice cut once.

Clive W  :D

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by Greg_650 on 10/21/05 at 06:52:17


klx650sm2002 wrote:
As a general rule go for minimum back pressure and rejet to suit.

As far as I know Your Raask is double skinned with an i.d. of 38mm at the head. Question is there a step from 38 to something bigger before the end of the pipe ?
If so what is the larger i.d. ? and how far from the head ?(measured along the pipe center line). Also how far from this step to the pipe end ?

Clive W  :D


I would guess that there is no step in the pipe.  The exhaust ID is bigger than stock, and some where (about 16-18 inches) from the end there is some packing.  The length of the packing is about the same as the length of the baffle.

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by vroom1776 on 10/21/05 at 13:51:25

Check out this link for drag pipes... which is essentially what the rask is...

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/exhaust.htm

Greg,  from my understanding, backpressure is good for low end and middle, but not so good for top end.  I have doent he thumbscrew trick with my cherry bomb, sans hole...  Seems to work fine...  However, With the cherry bomb and KN  pod, I noticed a significant improvement in the top end, and a little in the low/middle range.  If I slowly juice it,  my savage really takes off once the main jet takes over...

So, why does backpressure help the lwo and middle?  Not sure I understand this 100%, but "it helps with exhaust gas scavenging."  In my head, this should only apply to twins with a 2-1 pipe....   ???

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by Greg_650 on 10/21/05 at 15:24:53

Back pressure controls the flow through the cylinder better at low end is all that I can figure.

I just found some good possibilities in the J&P Cycles catalog, though.  Unfortunately a catalog doesn't tell you anything except size.

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by klx650sm2002 on 10/22/05 at 03:04:07

On KLX I have a 36" long 1,5/8" i.d. header followed by three steps up in diameter to a 2"i.d. Glasspack which has a 1,5/8"outlet.

On the savage this translates to 43" long 1.5"i.d. header if you like noise, stepping up to a 2" glasspack with a 1.5" outlet if you don't.

This pipe would be well matched with a 38mm Amal.

Clive W  :D

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by Greg_650 on 10/22/05 at 07:51:27


klx650sm2002 wrote:
On KLX I have a 36" long 1,5/8" i.d. header followed by three steps up in diameter to a 2"i.d. Glasspack which has a 1,5/8"outlet.

On the savage this translates to 43" long 1.5"i.d. header if you like noise, stepping up to a 2" glasspack with a 1.5" outlet if you don't.

This pipe would be well matched with a 38mm Amal.

Clive W  :D


And what if I open the exhaust port?

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by klx650sm2002 on 10/23/05 at 01:26:40

Open EX PO more power.

Clive W  :D

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by Greg_650 on 10/23/05 at 06:44:17


klx650sm2002 wrote:
On KLX I have a 36" long 1,5/8" i.d. header followed by three steps up in diameter to a 2"i.d. Glasspack which has a 1,5/8"outlet.

On the savage this translates to 43" long 1.5"i.d. header if you like noise, stepping up to a 2" glasspack with a 1.5" outlet if you don't.

This pipe would be well matched with a 38mm Amal.

Clive W  :D


So your inlet and output are the same.  

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by klx650sm2002 on 10/24/05 at 04:08:53

Yes I would try to keep carb size (slide carb) and exhaust i.d. the same. c.v. carb would be a bit bigger.

Clive W  :D

Title: Re: Making a baffle
Post by Greg_650 on 10/24/05 at 05:31:54

All righty then.... 8)

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