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General Category >> Technical Documents/Reference >> Adjusting Stock Shocks
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Message started by Reelthing on 12/20/05 at 21:16:33

Title: Adjusting Stock Shocks
Post by Reelthing on 12/20/05 at 21:16:33

See in this picture that Greg_650 made for us without the case -
it ramps up to the top firm setting (5) and then drops off the edge back to the softest (1) but if you going the other way you hit the wall and stop at 1
http://suzukisavage.com/images/uploaded/ShockAdjust02web.jpg

Title: Re: Adjusting Stock Shocks
Post by colinnoe on 03/24/11 at 15:27:59

how do you get the inner portion part to spin?

Title: Re: Adjusting Stock Shocks
Post by verslagen1 on 03/24/11 at 17:12:49

The upper part just below the spring will turn if you grease the ramps.
Just stick a rod in the boss in the side and turn.
Instead, I remove the lower bolt and twist the bottom part.

Make sure both sides are adjusted the same.

Title: Re: Adjusting Stock Shocks
Post by Sam7.62 on 10/04/11 at 13:32:41

Not to hijack your thread but the holes on my shocks don't match. Meaning if they are all the way down one is facing the rear of the bike the other would be facing forward or something to that effect
Does this matter? I adjust mine so I could see more of the bottom of the shock.(3 clicks up)

I think to get the last 2 clicks you may need to unload the shocks. On my car I cannot adjust the firmness with it on the ground..

Title: Re: Adjusting Stock Shocks
Post by verslagen1 on 10/04/11 at 13:56:08

0B39356F766E6A580 wrote:

No, as long as both shocks are adjusted the same, doesn't matter which way the point.

If you want to have them both point rearward, lift the bike slightly to take the weight off the shock, remove the mount bolts, take shock off and turn it around. or just twist the bottom.

Title: Re: Adjusting Stock Shocks
Post by Suzukisavvy on 04/24/14 at 12:53:27

How do you even get to that part on the shocks??

Title: Re: Adjusting Stock Shocks
Post by Serowbot on 04/25/14 at 11:30:52

What you are looking at, is a chrome cover... you can stick a screwdriver in the hole and turn, or if you take a little weight off the rear of the bike you can even turn by hand... just grip the lower part of the shock and twist...

Title: Re: Adjusting Stock Shocks
Post by irritatedmongo on 10/19/19 at 02:25:09

0A3D3D342C3031363F580 wrote:

Thank you! Been looking for this. The illustration in the OM isn't quite as clear.

Title: Re: Adjusting Stock Shocks
Post by ThumperPaul on 06/07/24 at 08:00:43

I need pictures. The written description is confusing my feeble mind.

In the markup photo, please confirm the YELLOW highlighted area is the softest preload setting (least coil load).

Blue markup area is the firmest setting (most coil load).

My arthritis is getting worse with age and I need to try to soften up the ride. Rode 36 miles yesterday and it feels like 3600 miles this morning. My Honda doesn't beat me up this bad (preload on 2nd softest setting and softer shocks in general).

Title: Re: Adjusting Stock Shocks
Post by Michael Moore on 06/07/24 at 10:09:09

The shorter the installed length, the higher the preload, the longer the installed length the lower the preload, so your colors match up to that.

Just keep in mind that adjusting preload doesn't change the spring rate, it is for making changes in ride height.

Title: Re: Adjusting Stock Shocks
Post by ThumperPaul on 06/07/24 at 12:02:45

Thanks Michael. That’s my understanding about preload as well. But why is it described as softer/firmer if it only affects height (no load/loaded)? I’m willing to give it a shot to soften the ride.

With the spring more tightly compressed to start with, wouldn’t it make it firmer overall? And vise-versa (less compressed, more travel available, and thus softer/springier ride).

Title: Re: Adjusting Stock Shocks
Post by Michael Moore on 06/07/24 at 12:42:59

I can recommend the book by Paul Thede and Lee Parks (with illustrations by my friend Alan Lapp)

https://racetech.com/suspension-bible/

and also the book and software by Tony Foale:

https://motochassis.com/

as noted here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/motorcycles/comments/obpe7f/does_preload_make_a_spring_stiffer/

it might be better to say that cranking up the preload doesn't make the spring "firmer" (stiffer) but it will increase "harshness" by increasing the amount of force needed to get the suspension to start moving. Changing preload can possibly compensate to a degree for an incorrect spring rate, but it doesn't change the spring rate.

On the CTX 700 Hondas people add washers to increase the preload on the OEM rear spring because the spring rate is often too light and the suspension is almost bottomed out when the rider (and maybe passenger and luggage) are added. The extra preload helps to extend the damper (raising the ride height) so some movement in the damper rod is available, but the spring is still too light and will bottom out easier than with the correct spring rate.

Suzuki says the rear wheel travel on the Savage is 80mm. With such a short travel they'll have to run a stiff spring and possibly crank up the preload as well so the suspension isn't practically sacked out all the time. But that's the price you pay for a bike where a very low seat height is a major design concern unless you are able to jigger things around to get both decent suspension movement and the low height at the seat.

Title: Re: Adjusting Stock Shocks
Post by zevenenergie on 06/08/24 at 00:43:39

I do not agree with it.
Suppose the spring is fully compressed at the lowest position of the adjustment option and you then adjust it to the highest position. then you have more spring tension,
The resistance of the steel increases as you deform it further.
So the adjustment option does make the spring also respond like a stiffer spring.

It is true that the shock absorber now needs more load to start compressing. And you feel that when driving as a rougher suspension behavior.

A heavier spring does not have that effect. The initiation of compression starts with a low load.
The effect of the heavier spring is noticeable as a stiffer one over the entire range and not as much as a rougher one.