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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Taking cables off /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1370306316 Message started by sscala on 06/03/13 at 17:38:36 |
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Title: Taking cables off Post by sscala on 06/03/13 at 17:38:36 Hey all, So I finally found a place to make my cables (throttle, clutch, brake). Now how do I get the cables out. I have no clue. It looks as if the cables are running under the tank. Do I have to take the tank off? Any tips? Thanks in advance :) |
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Title: Re: Taking cables off Post by Serowbot on 06/03/13 at 18:01:12 Yes... :-?... Remember how they went... :-?... |
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Title: Re: Taking cables off Post by sscala on 06/03/13 at 18:05:13 Lol well yes, that's the plan...just have to figure out how they come off haha |
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Title: Re: Taking cables off Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/03/13 at 21:24:50 Youd be well advised to tie a heavy cord to the cable & pull the cord in as ytou ppull the cable out. That way you can tie onto the cable & pull it right back where it went. |
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Title: Re: Taking cables off Post by Arnold on 06/04/13 at 09:57:45 Hey, I'm in NY too, if you're not too far from my 10520 zip I'd be interested of finding a place that can make me cables locally. I may decide to put some apes on that thing. |
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Title: Re: Taking cables off Post by sscala on 06/04/13 at 14:54:12 I'm in LI. So that's about an hour and a half from me, which is close enough. If I can find a local shop, that'd be great. I also need help getting the old cables off. I cannot figure it out. |
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Title: Re: Taking cables off Post by Arnold on 06/04/13 at 15:54:52 The tank come off pretty easily, empty it, unhook speedo cable and hoses then tab goes under the seat. Would benefit you to get a Clymer manual. Once you unbolt the tank at the tab, the tank is free to move, dont pull hard then unclip the socket underneath where the speedo is hooked. |
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Title: Re: Taking cables off Post by sscala on 06/04/13 at 19:39:13 Thanks for the tips. I'm going to get the Clymer manual. I'm sure it will come in handy. |
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Title: Re: Taking cables off Post by mpescatori on 06/05/13 at 02:17:33 Hi SSCala, I could have SWORN I had replied yesterday, but somehow my post was never published... ::) Oh, well... here goes again ! 1. Cables run through sheaths (or whatever you call them... sleeves to the English...) so make sure you grease up the sheath properly before you run the new cables through them! That way they will feed very smoothly and you will NOT need a cord or whatever as I read above... 2. If you plan on having new cables made (but why the rear brake, isn't it operated by a rod? Unless you have a rear set conversion...) I would advise on having new sheaths as well. They can be cut to measure and fitted with SS caps on each end. 3. If you plan on having new cables and sheaths, here's a classy suggesiton 8-) Have your clutch sheath cut to measure, and run the cable in... THEN have the cable cut to measure and have a lug soldered to each end. Feed the clutch cable assembly engine side first (from the clutch lever in the gearbox up to the handlebars) snap the two lugs in place and you're ready to go. Have a spare made in exactly the same fashion, with extra lube (grease) inside, and coil it up in the toolbox or wherever. This way, should the clutch cable ever snap you simply pop out the broken cable and old sheath, feed in the new cable as described and you're ready to go! Easy peasy, no grime, clean hands and no sweat at all! BMW used this system with their pushrod airheads from the 1950's to the late 1990's... 8-) |
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Title: Re: Taking cables off Post by Dave on 06/05/13 at 04:47:51 Mpescatori: I believe the reason for the new cables is that the owner is installing handlebars/risers that will need longer cables. He is wanting new throttle and clutch cables made.....both inner and outer as a set...complete....ready to bolt on. http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1367861419/0#0 The rear brake is cable operated on the Savage......not a rod. I don't believe the owner needs or wants a new rear brake cable. |
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Title: Re: Taking cables off Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/05/13 at 06:04:06 I learned a painful lesson when I was assigned the duty of replacing a "remotely operated" mirror on a car. The thing had a cable that went over by the driver, from there, all up under the dash & then into the door. I took it loose from the dash & from the door & pulled,, came out REaaaal Easy like,,, Then I started thinking about HOw the Heck am I gonna push that cable BACK thru all that mess??? Now, IF I hadda been thinking I woulda tied a stout piece of cord to the end, then I woulda just been set up to tie on & pull it back,,, But NOOOO,, I turned a 1 hour job into a 4 hour Hassle.. |
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Title: Re: Taking cables off Post by sscala on 06/05/13 at 13:48:40 Mpescatori: Thanks for the tips! and Dave is correct, I have new handlebars and just need new throttle and clutch and front brake and I want them ready to go when I get them. Justin_o_guy2: I dont think i need to run anything through tubes (unless I am wrong and have no clue what I am up against) but that is valuable information for when I need to replace a cable through a sheath, so thanks for the tips as well!! ANDDDD Just to be clear, I do have to remove the tank to replace the cables, correct? |
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Title: Re: Taking cables off Post by verslagen1 on 06/05/13 at 14:12:00 4E4E5E5C515C3D0 wrote:
There's not much to it once you remove the tank. The cables are held in place by a couple of cable ties. pull a tab and they pop loose, thread the new cable in. break a finger nail and take a look. |
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Title: Re: Taking cables off Post by justin_o_guy2 on 06/05/13 at 17:03:42 NOPE,, My tip wont help you with cables IN sheaths,, MY tip will help you replace entire cables,,not parts, the whoooole shootin match,, YOUll leave a cord in exactky the track the cable ran... tie on, pull into place. If it snags, okay, youll at least know exactly where it was,. |
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Title: Re: Taking cables off Post by sscala on 06/05/13 at 18:56:08 YOU ARE ALL AWESOME. I will be doing this on Saturday. |
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Title: Re: Taking cables off Post by mpescatori on 06/06/13 at 02:41:25 SScala, my hunch is that while I mention "cable" as "the steel cable", others mean "cable" as "the entire cable&sheath assembly"... ...see JOG's and Verslagen's suggestions. Verslagen says "The cables are held in place by a couple of cable ties. pull a tab and they pop loose, thread the new cable in..." I believe he's actually speaking about the cable sheath. Two weeks ago I snapped the clutch cable (see thread "I had to McGyver it") and I simply pulled the snapped cable out and fed the new cable in... through the sheath , from handlebars to clutch lever. In your first post you mentioned a brake cable, so I assumed you meant the rear brake. If it's the front brake you are talking about, may I suggest you: - recondition the brake hydraulic pump (it's just a wipe of the piston and fitting new seals), - recondition the brake caliper, - fit steel braided brale line cut to proper length (don't forget to allow for suspension travel in compression and in elongation!) As for the clutch, I stand by my words, 35 years of replacing clutch cables have taught me they snap in only three occasions: - when you're late for work... - when you're out with the girlfriend/wife... - when it's raining or after dark... Or any of the three, combined... :P Under these circumstances what you need is a "plug&play fixit", which is exactly what I suggested, a clutch cable already in its sheath and with lugs soldered at both ends. Just pull away old snapped cable, ignore old sheath (you can deal with it afterwards) clip new lugs clutch side first, handlebar lever next, and you're ready to roll in 60 seconds ! 8-) |
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