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Message started by JIbber Jabber on 10/07/16 at 06:52:22

Title: OIl type/change
Post by JIbber Jabber on 10/07/16 at 06:52:22

I know this topic has been debated and discussed but just want to confirm before doing first oil change myself. Is the Rotella T6 5W[ch8209]40 good for the bike, even though the manual says I should use 10w-40 and up? I also bought the redline additive that ill be adding.

Title: Re: OIl type/change
Post by Dave on 10/07/16 at 07:19:27

4C5A404F52404C4F350 wrote:

At 155,523 miles, Thumper has been taken out of service for some semi-major work.
Reasons for work.
1. Using too much oil (compression isn't horrible though. Suspect valve seals)
2. Clutch slipping in 5th gear. Enough to aggravate.

Mobil 1 was used until 60,000 miles. Rotella T6 since then.
:D

youzguys has been using Rotella T-6 for the last 95,523 miles, and the piston, cylinder, camshaft and rockers are all in excellent condition and can be but back into service.

What better proof can we give you?

If you are afraid of the 5w number in the oil rating (5W-40) - that is in indicator that you don't understand what the ratings mean. The 5W does not indicate the oil is thinner when the engine and oil are at operating temperature - it means the oil does not thicken when exposed to cold temperatures as much as an oil with a higher rating (like 10W). The lower 5W rating is actually a good thing - it means your engine will have an easier time starting if you ride in freezing temperatures.

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/index.html

Title: Re: OIl type/change
Post by verslagen1 on 10/07/16 at 07:28:28

Here's what those numbers mean...

Quote:

The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their viscosity characteristics. SAE viscosity grading include the following, from low to high viscosity: 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50 or 60. The numbers 0, 5, 10, 15 and 25 are suffixed with the letter W, designating their "winter" (not "weight") or cold-start viscosity, at lower temperature.
Viscosity is graded by measuring the time it takes for a standard amount of oil to flow through a standard orifice, at standard temperatures. The longer it takes, the higher the viscosity and thus higher SAE code.

Quote:

The temperature range the oil is exposed to in most vehicles can be wide, ranging from cold temperatures in the winter before the vehicle is started up, to hot operating temperatures when the vehicle is fully warmed up in hot summer weather. Specific oils will have high viscosity when cold and a lower viscosity at the engine's operating temperature.

Quote:

For single non-winter grade oils, viscosity is measured at a temperature of 100 °C (212 °F). Based on the range of viscosity the oil falls in at that temperature, the oil is graded as SAE viscosity grade 20, 30, 40, 50, or 60. In addition, for SAE grades 20, 30, and 40, a minimum viscosity measured at 150 °C (302 °F) and at a high-shear rate is also required, the higher the viscosity, the higher the SAE viscosity grade rating.

On a cold winters morning, packed in snow, you might see that 5w in action.
Mine would be... unlucky... to see 40°F.

Title: Re: OIl type/change
Post by JIbber Jabber on 10/07/16 at 08:07:18

Thx so much!! Based on your response it will be perfect!!

Really appreciate the timely response, you guys rock!!

Title: Re: OIl type/change
Post by Kris01 on 10/07/16 at 20:19:48

I use Rotella 15W40 and regularly ride in single digit temps with no problems. She starts right up and runs smooth as silk. I don't have any hesitation while starting it when sub-freezing temperatures. Just my 2 cents with Rotella. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Title: Re: OIl type/change
Post by Dave on 10/08/16 at 04:26:58

122B302A6968590 wrote:

I don't have any hesitation while starting it when sub-freezing temperatures. Just my 2 cents with Rotella. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

There is consistent hesitation and a lot of whining that occurs in this area when riding in sub-freezing weather - but it is coming from the rider! ;)

Title: Re: OIl type/change
Post by Kris01 on 10/08/16 at 18:28:18

Just FYI, the oil drain plug is on the left side just behind the kickstand. There's a few bolts under there and a lot of newbs have had a hard time finding the right one.

Title: Re: OIl type/change
Post by Kris01 on 10/08/16 at 18:29:44

7D6A6B636A78763F3F380F0 wrote:

I also bought the redline additive that ill be adding.

1 oz. Redline per gallon of Rotella. ;)

Title: Re: OIl type/change
Post by JIbber Jabber on 10/08/16 at 18:33:22

I watched some videos on YouTube and read some posts on here how to do oil/filter change, so I think I should be good.

Thx for the input!

Title: Re: OIl type/change
Post by Kris01 on 10/08/16 at 18:37:37

Also, make sure to put your oil filter in with the hole facing the engine. It will fit backwards and crack the housing from the buildup of pressure. I don't see how you can go wrong but it's been done.

Title: Re: OIl type/change
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 10/09/16 at 06:10:58

0C352E347776470 wrote:

I don't see how you can go wrong but it's been done.

I'm just baffled by anyone sticking it on bakkerds , but yeah, we've seen it a few times. I Think one of those times it Didn't ruin the motor, but I don't remember if the guy even came back after we told him Why that cover had such a good looking crack in it.
I know of two engines ruined and the oil was changed at the dealership.

Watch for the o ring on the filter.