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Message started by Big Mike on 02/08/17 at 10:56:40

Title: New Member
Post by Big Mike on 02/08/17 at 10:56:40

Thanks for the add to the site. I just picked up a 2003 Savage last weekend with 7800 original miles for $700 for my son's first bike.

I'm planning to put a new battery in it, fresh oil & filter, spark plug, air filter, etc.

Are there any common issues with this bike I need to look for as we get it ready for him?

Title: Re: New Member
Post by Big Mike on 02/08/17 at 11:15:34

This is my son on his new to him Savage!
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv253/mpersfull/Michael%20Savage.jpg

Title: Re: New Member
Post by SALB on 02/08/17 at 11:25:19

All you ever wanted to know, and more. ;)

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1181745927

Title: Re: New Member
Post by Papa Bear on 02/08/17 at 11:47:04

14 yr old tires may be a problem if they are original.

Welcome !

Title: Re: New Member
Post by Big Mike on 02/08/17 at 12:04:24

Thanks for the replies. Tires are not original, I've already had it on the lift and inspected them for any issues.

BTW, I'm not new to motorcycles by no means, Started on dirt bikes the summer I turned 4, had my first street bike before I was legal to ride it, I'll be turning 42 this year, my 26th season on the street.

This is my beast, 2005 Yamaha Road Star 1700 Full Custom
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv253/mpersfull/DSC_0110.jpg

Title: Re: New Member
Post by stewmills on 02/08/17 at 12:25:43

Welcome!

SALB provided the link you need for all things technical. This link may also help: http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1344399573.

Depending on how it runs, you may need to see about removing the air/mix plug so you can access the screw and as well consider the white spacer mod. If you still have any smooth running issues you can consider rejetting but that all depends on whether or not you really need rejetting.

Make sure to note your location in this post and/or your signature so folks know where you are...elevation can sometimes be a guide to jetting for others to offer advice.

Title: Re: New Member
Post by Big Mike on 02/08/17 at 17:25:34

292E3F2D37333636295A0 wrote:

Thank you, I have updated my profile to include where I'm from and other info. :-)

Title: Re: New Member
Post by jcstokes on 02/08/17 at 18:12:13

You have been given the good links to look at. You may wish to consider the Raptor Petcock modification and possibly inspecting the cam chain tensioner. Get some enjoyment out of the machine before pulling the carburettor to bits or adjusting it. Get your son to the MSF course if he hasn't done a lot of road riding. Get on the bike yourself and log some miles, you might enjoy it.

Title: Re: New Member
Post by Big Mike on 02/08/17 at 18:53:09

He will be going through the MSF course this spring before I take him on the open road. As for me logging miles, I doubt I'll see many on it. I'm built more like an NFL offensive lineman at 7' tall and 375lbs.

Title: Re: New Member
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/08/17 at 19:35:18

And, since Monstrous Mike is just too long of a name, you went with Big..

The petcock is old, it's a known problem with a ton of goofy symptoms, but gas in the oil is certainly a possibility, recommend you just ditch the OEM and get the Raptor, Genuine Yamaha parts,the cheap knockoff won't work out.

You surely know about antisieze.
Loose header bolts cause backfiring. The valves should have been adjusted at 5,000 miles..

Title: Re: New Member
Post by Steve H on 02/09/17 at 04:14:34

Welcome!

Get in some riding time on it. It is recommended usually to check the cam chain tensioner by about 10,000 miles. If it lets go, you get trash for an engine. One of the guys on here sells a modified one that works much better and will not fall apart in your engine causing damage.

The petcocks have been known to die with anywhere from around 1,000 miles to 25 or 30 thousand on them. It'll cause all kinds of crazy issues when it does. Replacement is about $30 when it comes time. There are several posts on here with the Yamaha part # you need.

You might want to check out the seat raising mod in the tech section too. It helps make the seat more user friendly by not continually sliding you forward into the tank.

Title: Re: New Member
Post by Dave on 02/09/17 at 06:13:39

You can probably go a few more miles before worrying about the cam chain tensioner.......but if your son rides a lot this summer, I would certainly pop the clutch cover off by 10,000 or 12,000 miles to confirm the tensioner is not ready to come apart.

However.......a 14 year old petcock and fuel lines should be attended to before your sons rides anywhere. The diaphragm can get stiff and fail to flow fuel - or it can get holes in it and leak fuel through the vacuum line and bypass the carb and flow fuel directly to the intake......the fuel can flood the crankcase and/or the airbox. If the petcock doesn't fail completely, it can still cause very erratic running problems that are often diagnosed as ignition or carb problems, and it can stop running at time that can put you in peril. You should install a new petcock immediately....and use the genuine Raptor petcock from Yamaha.

How old are the tires? They may not be the original - but no manufacture or retailers recommends riding on tires more than 5 years old. There is a 4 digit code stamped into the side of every tire......if it says something like "3408" that shows it was made the 34th week of 2008. If you don't ride aggressively or in poor weather conditions, you might be able to use the tires more than 5 years - but the rubber does age and provide less traction as the rubber gets harder over time.

Title: Re: New Member
Post by Big Mike on 02/09/17 at 20:36:01

Thanks for all the responses.

Tires were put on in July of 2015, they are still in good shape with no cracking. However, they are Dunlop tires, and well, with 25+ years and 100's of thousands of miles, I feel safe in my opinion that Dunlop tires suck. If you like Dunlop, more power to you, but not for me. So they will get replaced before the real season hits.

We pulled the tank today and drained the old fuel from it. The petcock was not flowing fuel, so we pulled it from the tank, pulled it apart and thoroughly cleaned it. Put it back together and it is functioning exactly how it should.

Since we had the tank off, I had him put in a new spark plug. Since the bike had set for close to a year, I had him put a small amount of MMO into the cylinder to lubricate the top end.

Next we pulled the carb, cleaned the jets and inspected seals etc, It is all in good shape. Carb is back together and back on the bike.

Fuel & vacuum lines from the carb to the petcock looked iffy, so I went ahead and ran new line. Used a fuel injection hose since they hold up better over time.

After all that, he put the new battery in it, bolted it all back together, pulled the choke, set the petcock to prime and fired his bike for the first time. She purrs really nice except for an exhaust leak where the muffler & head pipe connect.

By this point, it was time for dinner & school work, so I had him put up the tools, clean everything up and tuck her away for the night.

Plan for after school tomorrow is to change the oil & see if we can fix the exhaust leak. Sounds like checking the cam tensioner will be added to the list.

Saturday will be the beginning of riding lessons. ;D Wish me luck!

Title: Re: New Member
Post by Dave on 02/10/17 at 05:32:55

It all sounds fine - except for cleaning the petcock and putting it back together with a diaphragm that is 13 years old. If you ignore the advice to replace the stock petcock, you should put a vacuum cap and golf tee in the tool kit so you can plug the vacuum line and set the petcock to prime so you can make it home when it fails. Also keep an eye on the oil level and if the level rises, the crankcase is being filled with fuel that is leaking through the diaphragm and flowing down the vacuum line.

Title: Re: New Member
Post by Big Mike on 02/10/17 at 06:02:46

Well, I had torn down the petcock & rebuilt it before the warning. The diaphragm showed no signs of wear or rot. Moves effortlessly with light suction and when introduced to a heavier vacuum to check for leak down, it had none. Since I had it apart, I replaced the O ring that is inside it.

This isn't my first rodeo rebuilding parts on a bike, but now that I know that the Raptor mod is to fix an underlying issue of a failure that doesn't seem to fall into a pattern, I'll order a Raptor one when I order some parts for my R* this weekend.

Title: Re: New Member
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 02/10/17 at 10:55:38

Low idle speed starves the cam. Letting it idle leaned over on the stand starves the high lobe.
The rest is stuff that will come up in time, details like clutch throw out rods, nothing to sweat today.

Title: Re: New Member
Post by Dave on 02/10/17 at 16:47:29

3F2237202134273E3E520 wrote:

This isn't my first rodeo rebuilding parts on a bike, but now that I know that the Raptor mod is to fix an underlying issue of a failure that doesn't seem to fall into a pattern, I'll order a Raptor one when I order some parts for my R* this weekend.

My "strong" suggestion was not made to imply any lack of ability....it was more intended in an effort to keep your son out of trouble. When the petcock begins to get fussy.....it can cause all kinds of weird symptoms....one of which is the bike can suddenly stop running when you need it most. One of our forum members was passing a truck on the interstate and had the throttle open in an attempt to get the pass done, and suddenly the bike stopped running. It turned out that when the throttle was opened up and the vacuum in the carb dropped....there was not enough of a vacuum to operate the petcock. For other owners the bike can get too rich as a result of the petcock leaking fuel down the vac line......and others have had erratic behavior that has them chasing down electric gremlins that don't exist. Changing cams, exhaust or air filters may also alter the vacuum and the proper operation of the stock vacuum petcock.

I didn't want your son getting stuck in a bad situation......when it could be avoided. Show him how to use the golf tee and vacuum cap to bypass the vacuum line and use the PRI.....and he will be able to make it back home! :)

Title: Re: New Member
Post by Big Mike on 02/11/17 at 10:20:19

Before he is allowed out on the road on his own, I will make that change. Right now he is only allowed to ride on the road we live on. He doesn't have a permit or anything yet, but our road is a private road so he can run up and down it without getting in trouble. ;D