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SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Drag Specialties Tach Installation /cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1719514784 Message started by ThumperPaul on 06/27/24 at 11:59:44 |
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Title: Drag Specialties Tach Installation Post by ThumperPaul on 06/27/24 at 11:59:44 Trying to install a tach. On the coil, there is black/yellow and an orange/white wires. Which is the negative wire to connect the tach to? What the best way to tap into the wire? Piggyback spade connector? Solder? On the horn, there is a black/blue strip and a black/red strip. Which is hot/positive? This is where I plan to get power for the tach. Suggestions where to ground the tach? Splicing into the coil wire and horn wire makes me a little nervous. I really don’t want to mess with those nice tight connectors. |
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Title: Re: Coil Wires and Horn Wires Post by Surviving Philly on 06/27/24 at 12:43:54 Here's my modified wiring diagram -- I'd look into the connections but don't have the time right now. Just posting it here so you can access it |
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Title: Re: Coil Wires and Horn Wires Post by ThumperPaul on 06/27/24 at 12:47:54 More power to you, Philly! No pun intended. This give me a headache just looking at it. All I can think is “why?”. What are you trying to accomplish with all this deletion? I can understand things like bypassing the clutch position sensor and side stand sensor, and maybe going to a manual decomp, but the other stuff I don’t get. For example, what do you have against a horn? |
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Title: Re: Coil Wires and Horn Wires Post by ThumperPaul on 06/27/24 at 13:26:13 Coil wires. Which is negative? |
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Title: Re: Coil Wires and Horn Wires Post by Surviving Philly on 06/27/24 at 14:20:13 I THINK the black is negative. Regarding my own set up -- horn will get you shot here. Only lights I run are headlight and tail. Nobody pays attention to signaling in Philly. Surviving literally |
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Title: Re: Coil Wires and Horn Wires Post by ThumperPaul on 06/27/24 at 14:26:34 Horn wires. Which is hot/positive? Is black/red positive? Thanks Philly, but I kinda need a “for sure” definitive answer on both. |
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Title: Re: Coil Wires and Horn Wires Post by ThumperPaul on 06/27/24 at 14:31:19 043521383A3B38353A540 wrote:
I still don’t get it? Just don’t use ‘em. Why go thru the hassle and risk of deleting? Plus, if you ever sell it, it’ll hurt resale value in my opinion. Unless you plan to put it all back together. Sorry, I’m from the school of “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. |
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Title: Re: Coil Wires and Horn Wires Post by ThumperPaul on 06/27/24 at 17:46:07 Got it. The "black and red" wire for the horn is 12v+. The black wire on the coil is negative. |
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Title: Re: Coil Wires and Horn Wires Post by Surviving Philly on 06/28/24 at 04:32:36 I replaced my handlebar switches with aftermarket stuff that required me to do some wiring and while I was at it removed all the stuff from the bars I don't want/use. So I have one micro switch in the RH side with kill/starter and that's it. Since that stuff wasn't being used I also redid the wiring harness into a pretty simple, less cluttered cord essentially that runs the length of the frame from under the seat up to the bars. This thing isn't being sold, I'm riding it till the doors fall off. I don't think id recommend these mods to anyone for any particular reason I'm just having fun. |
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Title: Re: Coil Wires and Horn Wires Post by ThumperPaul on 06/28/24 at 04:46:10 That’s cool. I hope I didn’t offend you! I think I’ve mentioned before, I HATE ELECTRICAL! If I don’t have to mess with it, I don’t! Awesome that you’re smart enough and brave enough to delve into it! I also admire your commitment to the Savage! I keep running hot/cold on the bike, and dare I say, I think I prefer my Honda Shadow. I keep coming back to the Savage though for its light weight and being able to flick it around easier as I get older. It’s also easier for me to learn to wrench on and learn about things in general. I think I may have found a keeper in the S40 I have now though (a pretty clean unmolested 2006 with less than 6k miles when I got it 2 months ago). I’ve been talking to Fast650 and I’m going for the mostly stock looking sleeper. |
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Title: Re: Coil Wires and Horn Wires Post by DragBikeMike on 07/01/24 at 23:35:50 I would not power up anything off the black/red horn wire. That wire gets it's power via the starter button aux contacts. The starter button aux contacts are prone to failure. They are wimpy, and can't handle the constant current flow to the headlight, running lights, and horn. Over time, they get fouled by water and road debris and start to arc and pit. You should hot up any accessories directly off the main switch outlet (orange). It's protected by a fuse and has the best chance of handling the increased current. When you power up the tach off the black/red horn wire, you will eventually end up with an intermittent tach. As the aux contacts in the starter button start to crap out, the tach will start to do this crazy hula as it powers down and powers up. It will fool you into thinking the cheap tach is dead, when actually it's the cheap contacts in the starter button. |
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Title: Re: Coil Wires and Horn Wires Post by ThumperPaul on 07/02/24 at 04:48:27 Thanks Mike! Now you tell me. Lol! I’ve got it all hooked up. And to fool and surprise you, I actually spent some real money and bought a Drag Specialties mini tach. Where is this main switch you speak of? Got a picture? Cuz, looking at a wiring diagram and then figuring where something is on the bike doesn’t always work for me (I can only find the easy stuff). Will I need to extend the wires coming from the tach? How many dang amps can that little tach pull? The horn is in a very convenient spot to hook up. I just won’t use my horn. lol. PS - Does your Drag Specialties tach rest at 500 instead of zero when the power is off? Doesn’t seem right? Maybe there is a way to calibrate it??? I ain’t opening the thing up. My ear generally agrees with 1,200 rpm idle reading. I need to hook up my other cheap external tach and see what it says to try to verify. |
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Title: Re: Coil Wires and Horn Wires Post by Surviving Philly on 07/02/24 at 05:34:11 If you take a look at the diagram above the main hot wire is the orange wire almost everything is connected to. If you look at the speedometer on that diagram, the b/w wire coming from the speedometer is ground, the other one connects directly to the main orange hot wire. This is probably where I would splice your tac actually as well, I think that's the easiest way to access that probably, directly under the tank you could splice in a connection to it, insulate it and run it up to the tac. |
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Title: Re: Coil Wires and Horn Wires Post by DragBikeMike on 07/03/24 at 00:17:37 I tie in at the connector for the main switch. It's under the seat. I use 14-gauge automotive wire and I try to stay faithful to the original wire color (orange). The spade connectors allow me to restore to stock and also aid in troubleshooting. |
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Title: Re: Coil Wires and Horn Wires Post by DragBikeMike on 07/03/24 at 00:19:23 Run a 14-gauge orange wire forward, under the fuel tank. |
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Title: Re: Coil Wires and Horn Wires Post by DragBikeMike on 07/03/24 at 00:23:33 Then use spade connectors and butt connectors to branch the wire to accommodate the desired accessories. In your case, it should only be one spade connector (for the tach). On my installation, I have three branches (tach, air fuel ratio meter, and voltmeter). |
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Title: Re: Coil Wires and Horn Wires Post by DragBikeMike on 07/03/24 at 00:57:54 I have no idea why your tach needle rests at 500. Mine parks at zero. I do recall several instances where it parked at random locations when the power was interrupted before the tach could complete its initial power-up routine. That was associated with those aux contacts in the starter button. Those contacts gave me a lot of grief before I figured out what was goin on. Those wimpy contacts have to continuously carry 5.4 amps. While that's not a whole lot of current, it takes a toll when the contacts are always opening and closing, and the switch assembly is exposed to weather. Once it starts to arc and get hot, the heat transfers to the main contacts and those start to screw up. Then it won't crank. Toot the horn and the current increases. Its resistance is 1.9 ohms so if it was just a static load you can add another 6.3 amps. Now your up close to 12 amps total. But the horn is a dynamic load. No tellin how it behaves. |
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Title: Re: Coil Wires and Horn Wires Post by ThumperPaul on 07/03/24 at 06:00:59 Thanks a million, Mike! I really appreciate the step-by-step with photos! I think I can handle this now! The tach is now at ZERO. You’re right. The first photo at 500rpm was straight out of the box before powering it up the first time. Not being very observant, I didn’t notice until 5 minutes ago when you mentioned it. Duh! |
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Title: Re: Drag Specialties Tach Installation Post by ThumperPaul on 08/30/24 at 07:19:15 DBM or somebody - Can I tap into this orange wire (pick pointing at it) on the main clip for the tach? It’s in a slot by itself and a little easier to get at for me. In your photo, it appears you tapped into the solid orange wire in the slot next to it that has 2 wires coming out of it (solid orange, and orange/black strip). I have no clue where any of these wires run off to… (you know I hate electrical and I can’t read a wiring diagram to save my life) Clip… Input Brown —> Output Brown Red/White —> Red/Black Grey —> 2 wires Solid Orange and Orange/Black Strip (you tapped the solid orange) Solid Orange—> Solid Orange (I was thinking to use this one.) I want the tach to power up when the ignition is turned on. |
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Title: Re: Drag Specialties Tach Installation Post by ThumperPaul on 08/30/24 at 08:26:56 Disregard. I just tapped into the same wire you used, DBM. Figured if that’s the one you used, I should use it too. All good. Tach and everything lights up when the ignition is on. Thanks again, Mike. |
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