The mountain roads I ride won't let you go 100 mph anyway.  Whatever your top speed is, you can still only go as fast as the clown in front of you, mostly.  I did put a Superbrace on the fork. It handles pretty well for a "cruiser"!

Yup!  Bigger isn’t always better.  It can be a hard thing to sink into a thick skull.  The RIGHT air/fuel ratio is what you want.

Tops for me on the Savage is about 94mph with stock motor and Jardine exhaust (stupid loud).  I was running a PWK38 carb that DragBikeMike painfully helped me get dialed-in correctly (Thanks again, Mike).  It probably could have done 100mph with a long downhill and tailwind.  People that build and tune these bikes to run all day in the twisties in 3rd/4th gear
found the best fun zone!

Thanks Savard, I will check thout. So I have four nipples, 2 on the left and 2 on the right, and what you are saying is it goes on the back RIGHT no t left. I looked for a diagram EVERYWHERE and could not find one.

Check your charging voltage at the battery. Mine was doing something similar. The charging voltage should be near or slightly over 15 volts DC with the engine at 3500+ rpm. If it's not, you might have an alternator issue. One of the wires from the stator had gotten up against the drive pulley and worn through on mine. Charging voltage still read 12-13 volts, but if you checked the three yellow wires from the stator, 2 had 100+ volts AC and the third had zero with either of the other wires. It should read 100+ AC with any two of the three. Getting to it was a PITA, but repairing the wire brought it back to spec.

Electronic ignition depends on a good charging system, since most of them stop working if you don't have at least 11 volts DC. A good battery can drop below 11 volts, then build up a surface charge after sitting a while that will let it run... until the battery drains again.

When I was resurrecting mine, it would do that if I cracked open the throttle, like on the freeway on-ramp. I had already done the manual petcock, and put on an HD Dyna muffler, and drilled some 1/2" holes in the air box for a K&N filter, so I upped the jet size. That's when it started bogging down at WOT. I went back to the stock jet and it behaved like it should. (Still can't get to 100 mph, though...  )

Alright I’m back. Little Honda with a ground problem still giving me fits , had to step away. Double Ugly definitely progressing , rear axle is done , rear brakes done ( now have a parking brake ) that means I can drive it  , Right !   New shocks at all 4 corners. New rear tires are on(traction tires) , haven’t got tubes to mount the other 3 steer tires yet , next week. Moving to front brakes then master cylinder & brake lines. Pushing hard everyday to get brakes done before summer heat sets in. Then back on the bikes at night when it’s cool. It’s hard trying to be a purist by keeping it old while renewing  the old girl. Could have put modern wheels with radial tires but NO , she started life with 16 x 4 1/2” rims with 6.50-16 bias ply tires , tall & skinny tires. She’s gonna look like it just left the farm for an errand. Making friends all over the lower 48 hunting parts and an education with every phone call. After it runs & drives , the interior , doors & glass. Big Big fun , getting to use all those tools I brought home when I retired. It will sit for weeks sometimes , key on , pull choke , pump the pedal twice , push starter button , it starts so quick it scares me !    

Yep, this is the direction I was heading. I did remove the rubber to the old stems this morning... just wish I didn't go all the way.

https://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=113747502
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Seems failsafe to me. Hey, I don't want to be too irresponsible though. If the LEDs don't shine in the light, I'll get the i5s down the line I suppose. I think those have bulbs.

Hey Dave, thanks for the advice.  I'm FINALLY putting the finishing touches to rebuilding my savage with a new clutch, petcock, brake flush, spark plug,  carb clean, etc. And im gonna just test it out once I replace the pair of broken turn signals. I guess I'm not inclined to make this one, my second most expensive repair.

Even if it wasn't a test to see if my bike can run again... the cost of the plastic OEMs is just unreasonable. I bought these a year ago so I can't return them. They are chrome and according to the guy who recommended them, they do seem pretty bright. I've gotten used to hand signals anyway, so in a way these are just a formality. The area I ride in had little to no traffic.

I am aware of the i5s though. And that's my last ditch for now.

I looked through the site and found this: https://suzukisavage.com/home/tech/lights/

Any recommendations as far as these posts are concerned, anyone? I'm gonna read through them tonight

I don't think screwing them onto the fender and exposing the cords is the preferable option.

Maybe I see your mistake the two long lines that have a long hose that go to nothing stay they are so when bike tips fuel flows out past engine keep those and don't block off on my bike it is nipple on opposite side that get capped off for non vac petcock not same side as fuel line

Also not sure but I think the style you bought might work if you remove pillion handle / side rail install directly through fender. But like I said i5 brand on Amazon work great I've had them on 2nd riding season and still holding great.