Quote:I spent $20 on a set of aftermarket ones. They worked fine. So I don't know what is going on
Same wattage as the originals?
I looked @ the diagrams in my new manual and it shows good old fashioned relay. It will require "x" amount of current to operate the circuit. If the other/larger 'equalizers' don't work the circuit, you want to play safe, get a rheostat or potentiometer,
Say 1K ohms and put that across the new light and then turn on the blinker for that side. It won't blink yet.
Since you would set the pot., to it’s highest setting, it would pose no danger to the circuit as it would draw insignificant current w/ the setting on highest resistance (which you would check 1st).
Then slowly turn the pot. up until it just activates the blinker.
Leave it set, remove pot. from blinker circuit and read the resistance w/ your meter, and get a resistor of that resistance or slightly less resistance is OK, if you can't get the exact resistance you measured for each side, and install one for each side. You will only need one resistor for each side, so install each one frt. or rear wherever works best/easiest. Don’t think a 10W blinker conversion is too common.