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Changing Turnsignals (Read 18 times)
Savage_Greg
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Re: Changing Turnsignals
Reply #15 - 08/28/04 at 04:30:15
 
Are you sure that the running lights on the front 2 signals are connected correctly?
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suzyssuzi
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Re: Changing Turnsignals
Reply #16 - 08/28/04 at 07:27:29
 
i just replaced my turn signals as well and they do not flash. please need more info on how to wire in resistor, can i just wire in one for front and one for rear or do i need 4, there is not much room in the signal housings. need help? thanks.
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Changing Turnsignals
Reply #17 - 08/28/04 at 07:38:09
 
I don't know.  A lot of work is going on with this problem, but honestly, it doesn't sound like the real cause of the problem has been found yet.  I wouldn't be buying resistors until someone says that it works.

BTW - when I took my last spill, I broke a rear turn signal.  And not wanting to spend $60 plus bucks for one replacement, I spent $20 on a set of aftermarket ones.  They worked fine.  So I don't know what is going on.
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Mr 650
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Re: Changing Turnsignals
Reply #18 - 08/28/04 at 13:29:59
 
Quote:
I spent $20 on a set of aftermarket ones.  They worked fine.  So I don't know what is going on

Same wattage as the originals?
I looked @ the diagrams in my new manual and it shows good old fashioned relay. It will require "x" amount of current to operate the circuit. If the other/larger 'equalizers' don't work the circuit, you want to play safe, get a rheostat or potentiometer,
Say 1K ohms and put that across the new light and then turn on the blinker for that side. It won't blink yet.
Since you would set the pot., to it’s highest setting, it would pose no danger to the circuit as it would draw insignificant current w/ the setting on highest resistance (which you would check 1st).
Then slowly turn the pot. up until it just activates the blinker.
Leave it set, remove pot. from blinker circuit and read the resistance w/ your meter, and get a resistor of that resistance or slightly less resistance is OK, if you can't get the exact resistance you measured for each side, and install one for each side. You will only need one resistor for each side, so install each one frt. or rear wherever works best/easiest. Don’t think a 10W blinker conversion is too common.
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Munson_kl279
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Re: Changing Turnsignals
Reply #19 - 08/28/04 at 18:12:44
 
Well, after many headaches and the wife yelling at me for spending to much time in the garage I finally got them working perfectly.   Grin

Here is how it works....

Just hook the front signals up the same way the stock lights were wired in.  (If you are using single filiment lights just tape off the running light power wire.)

The rear lights are were you can hook up the resistors and hide them under the seat.  The best results came from hooking two 25 watt resistors inline (hook one resistor to the other) then hook the end of one resistor to the positive feed and the other to the negative (ground) feed.  (As a side note some how when I hooked up the right side light I missed hooking the ground wire from the bike up to the light but since the casing for lights I bought act as the ground this is no big deal)

Solder all the connections and use some liquid electrical tape and your almost done.

The last step is to hide the resistors and put your seat back on.

I haven't been able to take it for a test drive yet b/c in during the experimentation stages my dad was helping me since I was so stumped and he took my headlight off to conserve the battery drain.  Since I had bought a new custom headlight to put on too I figured what the hell and just started getting that ready to hook up...With the exception of having to drill a new mounting hole this should be an easy one.  Ha ha...

As soon as I'm done with the headlight I'll post a picture for everyone to see these wonderfull new lights.
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Changing Turnsignals
Reply #20 - 08/29/04 at 03:17:59
 
Well, sometimes you have to "go around your butt to scratch your elbow", but I'm glad it worked.

So essentially you added 50 watts of resistance to each light, right?
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Mr 650
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Re: Changing Turnsignals
Reply #21 - 08/29/04 at 07:24:13
 
Quote:
The best results came from hooking two 25 watt resistors inline (hook one resistor to the other)  


Cool ! glad you have it working again. Wink

Like my circuits 1 instructor once said, the mechanical boys get  to use fairly exacts parts, 'we get to use parts w/ 10% or 20%  varience like resistors and such.
Imagine what your house would look like if the studs were allowed to be cut +,- 20 %'?
Curious about this, 25 W tells us what current they can handle but not what resistance was used. Sounds like you have two small resistors in series that maybe 5 or 6 ohms.
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SilverBlue '01,K&N,Snorklectomy,125mm NOS carb, 1/2 spacer & 155, 'Trapp, NC flyscreen, Suzy GelSeat, Osram H4
later..putt. Putt, PUtt, PUTT! 8)
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Munson_kl279
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Re: Changing Turnsignals
Reply #22 - 08/30/04 at 05:25:16
 
I found that using 2 20 watt resistors in parallel would also do the trick but when I hooked up the 25 watt resistors in parallel the same way they caused the lights to flash extremely fast.  But by putting the bigger ones in line it actually caused the lights to flash slower than they did with the 20 watt ones that were parallel.

During this process I tried using a 20 watt and 10 watt resistor also but then the lights didn't blink at all and they got very very hot very fast.
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Mr 650
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Re: Changing Turnsignals
Reply #23 - 08/31/04 at 08:46:51
 
It's important to know the resistance of these.
Resistance is in ohms designated w/ the little Omega symbol or there are color bars that designate the digits.
Seems like brown ="1", black = "0" and the 3rd color band is the multiplier.
What do they look like?
If you draw too much current then you may blow the relay.BE CAREFUL
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SilverBlue '01,K&N,Snorklectomy,125mm NOS carb, 1/2 spacer & 155, 'Trapp, NC flyscreen, Suzy GelSeat, Osram H4
later..putt. Putt, PUtt, PUTT! 8)
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Munson_kl279
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Re: Changing Turnsignals
Reply #24 - 08/31/04 at 14:05:48
 
They are solid white.  About 3" long
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Changing Turnsignals
Reply #25 - 08/31/04 at 14:23:08
 
Munson_kl279 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:08:
They are solid white.  About 3" long


Them puppies are meant for heat, not a circuit board  Shocked
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Mr 650
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Re: Changing Turnsignals
Reply #26 - 08/31/04 at 21:30:02
 
Munson_kl279 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:08:
I found that using 2 20 watt resistors in parallel would also do the trick but when I hooked up the 25 watt resistors in parallel the same way they caused the lights to flash extremely fast.  But by putting the bigger ones in line it actually caused the lights to flash slower than they did with the 20 watt ones that were parallel.

During this process I tried using a 20 watt and 10 watt resistor also but then the lights didn't blink at all and they got very very hot very fast.

Dude,
"watts' are one thing, "ohms are another. (They are related)
Are you using the prescribed resistance? ???
A 6 ohm 1/4 watt resistor is a small round cylinder you see on circuit boards, however a 6 ohm 25 watt resistor will still be 6 ohms, it just won't burn up in a high current application. If you can't find or measure the resistance ask someone who can.
You may find yourself walking home one night.
Otherwise, Good Luck.
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SilverBlue '01,K&N,Snorklectomy,125mm NOS carb, 1/2 spacer & 155, 'Trapp, NC flyscreen, Suzy GelSeat, Osram H4
later..putt. Putt, PUtt, PUTT! 8)
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Munson_kl279
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Re: Changing Turnsignals
Reply #27 - 09/01/04 at 05:20:48
 
Mr 650 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:08:
You may find yourself walking home one night.
Otherwise, Good Luck.


That's why I wired in a blade fuse on both sides.
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Munson_kl279
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Re: Changing Turnsignals
Reply #28 - 09/02/04 at 06:42:57
 
If anyone is interested in the trouble making lights here is a link to my website:

http://www.geocities.com/munsonscycle/Savage.html
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