Just did the process on a '95 a few weeks ago.
First you read over this tech doc.
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1099227295
No, you do not need to pull the engine, but be sure and print out the bolt template as I didn't understand it's value until I used it - I'm not sure even 2 bolts are the same length and you'll be pulling a dozen or so. I just removed the seat and the tank (of course on this '95 to remove the tank you must drain it and remove the fuel petco-ck. Two things putting back together I seem to have botched - make sure when you put the vent hose back on it is not kinked or bent in any way and try not to stuff the stainless steel screen into the head cover very tight - this two things botched enough will lead to another leak in the speedometer cable - see post -
so far as torque - I have a 10mm openend head that fits a small 3/8ths drive needle torque wrench works ok on most bolts - a 1/4 inch drive click type would work better - but the top bolt was tighten with a 10mm shorty boxend (wrench is 3 inches long) and I might have used a 4 inch 1/4in drive ratchet on a couple of others - just be careful - these bolts need very little torque 7 or 8 lbs max - 5lbs would do I bet - so use small wrenches

I'll pull the tank again in couple of days and measure the frame, I want to have a look at the ngk iridium plug after 500 miles - curious on the color with this 150 jet and bit less than 1/2 the spacer and a touch of castrol tts 2-stroke oil in the gas - bike seems to run mighty fine.

erikrichard wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:04:


That bolt is difficult to reach and if using a wrench an open end is not a good choice.  Once, working on a friend's Savage, that same bolt seemed too tight and wanted to round off.  Since you can't get a ratchet in there, I found a 10 MM 6 point socket and ground 2 flats on the socket.  Then I used a larger wrench to turn the socket and remove the bolt.

My investment was 1/4 inch drive 10 mm Craftssman swivel socket . Works like a charm with 6 inch extention.

Hi All,

I'm a proud Savage owner for a few months now.
From the beginning I knew my '87 bike had the infamous Head Seal Cap oil leak.
But recently the oil also leaks from a completely different spot then where it usually is. Now I'm worried that it's a different leak then the Head Seal Cap oil leak.
On this picture you can see where I found the oil dripping.

The leaking only occurs after I've been driving, so I guess it has something to do with the wind gushing through there.

Is there someone who could help me?
I'm a noob if it comes to Motors, but I'm eager to learn.

Cheers,

Ale Pieter

slavy wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:04:


I agree, my bike also has the pulg cap leak and the bottom looks like that after a couple of days riding...

I'd fix the cap leak first, and then check if there is still oil at the bottom... might just be a one-fix leak....

Take care,

RW

The best thing would be to go to a self-car wash and wash the engine.....then ride it around and go home and look again....

You have 3 potential leak spots on that side, not counting the left side cover gasket.

Rubber seal around the nuetral wire on the rear of the engine.

Seal around the clutch actuator lever.

Seal inside the speedo cable (already mentioned)