Wel, my FSM is not in at the dealers yet and my 600mi service is rapidly approaching.  Need to retorque the head bolts (and mess with that infamous plug) and that involves removal of the head cover.  This cover is the upper bearing shell for the camshaft so my question is: when you remove the head cover does the camshaft pop loose so you got to mess with cam-chain tension adjustment?  My hope is it stays in place.  Thanks for any feedback; my Clymer manual is rather vague on this point.  Also, I assume you can reuse the rubber plug on the cam drive end?

be sure and read over the plug tech doc

I did this job recently.

For the "infamous" plug, be sure you take your time and clean all of the old sealant material from the hole.  I didn't do this good enough and had to go back and do it a second time (if this plug is leaking, there will be no doubt you've got an oil leak).

Many (myself included) have had luck with Permatex Ultra Copper gasket sealant.

Also, take notes while you do the job and keep the notes with your FSM.  They will help you the next time you do this job.

Thanks for all the tips - I'll be particularly mindful of the hydraulic lock.  So there are four head to crankcase studs, two head to cylinder bolts (fore and aft) and two cylinder to crankcase bolts (right side).  Clymer says to remove the four main stud nuts to reoil them for torquing but I always thought you just backed off torque a quarter turn or so but never to zero that freed the gasket causing potential leaks.  Besides, all fasteners should be partially relaxed evenly in a criss-cross pattern and that means six bolts for the head.  Guess I'll figure it out and maybe it's not so critical.  Oh, the curse of being a worry wart!

Wait a minute....of course you don't want to use a "threadlocker" on the nuts.  Whoa.  Just wait until that stuff has been baked at engine temps and you'd be using a torch to loosen them....

I have done the head nut/stud torquing procedure both ways.  Dry and with oil dry....I was also skeptical of the idea of oiling the threads, but after doing so, I understand better.

One little trick here involves the copper washers.  During the torquing process the nuts and washers become "seated".  The washers are intended to become deformed under the pressure and conform to the head surface while the nut digs into the washer on top.  The washers are supposed to be replaced each time too....but who really wants to, or does.  Check the used washers and see...they will be gouged.  What you can do is get a good flat file, and smooth out the washer surfaces so that the nut will slide on the washer while turning....

Now back to the nuts....use a drop of oil as the book says.  Remove and retorque (on the low side) each nut, one at a time, then go around and retorque to the max. in a criss-cross fashion.  That way you won't break the head gasket seal....

Why oil?  When you do it, you'll see.  Oil doesn't increase the torque value, it just makes sure the force is applied in the right direction.  Torque is the force exerted to turn the nut.  Plain and simple.  The purpose of the oil is to make sure the tightening force is applied to the cylinder head and NOT the threads on the dry stud alone....and don't forget that copper washer....the torque is supposed to compress  the cylinder head and not be wasted by on trying to turn the washer against the aluminum casting.

And also take the time to clean out all the dirt that gets in the there too.....Think friction.  It wastes the torque.

BTW - the right rear head nut is always in an oil bath under the headcover anyway.