Hi,

Today I adjusted the valve clearance on the inlet and outlet valves and to my surprise they did not have a gap. This is my first check since I have purchased the bike.

Engine was rebuilt 19,000km ago by a Dealership as well. So what I did was back out the lock nuts on the exhaust and inlet valves and adjusted them back in to 0.08mm with a thickness gauge,

Making sure the piston was at top dead centre on the compression stroke. Checking also the engraved line on the left end of the generator rotor was aligned with the notch on the generator cover.

Put everything back together and started the bike. Now I can hear a loud tapping noise coming from the rocker arms? Does anyone know why this is happening?

Will take the valve inspection covers off tomorrow and try again.

Any suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks
AussieSavage

I am sure it was set at TDC, but will double check tomorrow.

Thanks for the help.

Cheers

AussieSavage

Sounds like the cam shaft had some presure on the rockers is why you found no gap when you started.
After you set them turn the engine some - forward of course - and just a little before or after tdcc see if the gaps not bigger, if it is set them again.

Let me stress that during this you only turn the engine forward - since this cam is chain driven not gear driven you will create a bit a slop if you turn the engine backward trying to align the the marks.

My information says valve set to 0.003- 0.005 ". 0.008 is double the mid point and they would clatter for sure. My 96 started the noise last year and upon further checking last week I found the cam chain tensioner worn almost to the point of coming apart. A new chain,  tensioner,  the spring clip that holds it on the pin and side cover gasket are due in today. I expect the noise to be gone when those parts are reinstalled. Max

Just put the piston in TDC    C O M P R E S S I O N and adjust  the valves.

Max_Morley wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:03:


FWIW....Good point, Max.

Although Aussie said he measured the clearance in mm, just be advised that I've made that mistake before (with an '81 Gold Wing).  I set the valve clearances at the mm value, except I used the "inch" feeler gauge.

It can happen....

verslagen1 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:12:


Your day has come! I have followed the Clymer way and could not get myself to cross the point of no return. (Left them alone). Validating my thoughts with the Tech Manual I tried it a second time turning CCW. I could not get the "play" that is mentioned. There was no "jiggle" or lift or anything else. I spent a good 2 hours trying to get to TDC. I even used the Screwdriver method and matching the marks. They just don't seem to match up and I can never get the "Play" in the valves.
Talked to a MAC at the Stealer he said your not ready yet, you need 7k on the clock before you adjust them.
I admit I don't know what I'm looking for and would trip over it if I did.
TDC happens twice during the cycle. If they are 180 out of sync what else would tell me that. I have read the Tech Section and I can do the adjustment if I was sure that I was properly lined up. I reaize turning CW will make it sloppy. But CCW does not get me to loose rockers.
I need some assurance to pass the point of no return. My hat off to those that tried and got the rattle and slapping.

I would say you need to turn over the crank by hand until you can identify each part of the cycle.
Push, blow, suck and squeeze.  Or power, exhaust, intake and compression.
During compression and power cycles both valves are closed.  During the exhaust cycle, exhaust valves are open.  And during the intake only the intake are open.
spin it around until you are confident.  You may feel like you're back in grade school, but do it.  This is a basic skill that you have to know.