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HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step) (Read 1387 times)
LPHRN
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #30 - Yesterday at 17:20:31
 
Sorry, I meant to say foot pounds.  Still, it is much more than that.
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ThumperPaul
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #31 - Yesterday at 18:21:46
 
So all the 6mm bolts in the head cover.  Those should be 12lb ft if memory serves correctly.  I don't have the manual in front of me.

I made a template out of cardboard to remember exactly where each one goes.  I would not put a cheater bar or breaker bar on those.  Soak with some penetrating oil overnight.
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #32 - Yesterday at 22:07:13
 
the 9mm bolts are torqued to 21-24 lbft
the 8mm bolts are torqued to 17-20 lbft

if you are not using new copper washers, you need to anneal them.

apply oil to the bolt and nut threads before you torque them.

use a criss cross pattern.
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LPHRN
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #33 - Today at 06:11:02
 
Got it.  I was just worried about what seemed like very tight 9mm cylinder head bolts.
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #34 - Today at 09:13:28
 
Y’all got me confused.  Are you talking about the bolts securing the head cover (as I showed above)?  Or are you talking about the 4 nuts on the long 9mm cylinder head studs?
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #35 - Today at 15:07:07
 
LPHRN wrote on Yesterday at 16:08:28:
The nuts are very tight, far more than the 24 inch pounds they were supposed to be torqued to.  I can put a breaker bar on them and get them loose, but before I do I would like to know if anyone else has seen this.  

The 8mm and 9mm bolts are meant to be oiled before torqueing, lubricated torqueing is tighter than dry torqueing, hence why they are stiffer to remove as they'll dry out with time.
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