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rejetting and white spacer (Read 249 times)
northshore_paul
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rejetting and white spacer
07/31/08 at 10:23:34
I need a little help ! I am putting my dyna muffler on, rejet to 152.5 main & a 52.5 pilot ('06 model) and was going to do the white spacer mod...but can't loosen the screws on the plate that the spacer is under. They are starting to get buggered up and I figure I will just leave it alone. Question is how will replacing the above mentioned jets and the dyna muffler affect things if I don't change the white spacer? I thought about cutting the diaphragm barrel off near the screws so I can get to the screw with a drill to drill them out but the cost of a new diaphragm is prohibitive, $100.00 !!! Maybe I can use my wife's diaphragm,
Any suggestions from you wise gurus out there??? Thanks.
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T Mack 1 - FSO
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Re: rejetting and white spacer
Reply #1 -
07/31/08 at 11:35:49
With out the white space mod, the mid range will seem like it is not all there. Hard to explain. I put the white space back in for a week or two, and at around 3000 rpm it seemed like it had a miss but it wasn't really a miss, just sort of a pulse of less power. The bike also ran hotter. Most of your riding is in the mid-range, so the leaness of the white spacer hit home.
So..... for the screws, couple of options.
hardest but probably the best
: take the carb off the bike and use an impact screwdriver. Another one would be to use a pair of vise-grip pliers. You might have to loosen the carb and rotate it so the vise-grips can fit.
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Engineers design things, Technicians make them work.
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J Mac
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Laissez Les Bon
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Re: rejetting and white spacer
Reply #2 -
07/31/08 at 11:51:10
Never heard of . . .
After much difficulty, I got most of them off with needle-nosed vise grips. The "easy out" drill tap snapped on me. You'll want to replace the screws with stainless hex head screws (Sears Hardware). They helped me the next 4 times I took it apart. .
Note: Don't use a torch to heat up the screws
Some advise soaking them overnight with penetrating oil. I'm not sure there's much place for the oil to go, but it's worth a try.
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“These go to 11.” --Nigel Tufnel
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northshore_paul
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Re: rejetting and white spacer
Reply #3 -
07/31/08 at 13:59:46
I am talking about the 2 small screws that hold the little disc that covers the spacer inside the barrel at the top of the needle not the 4 screws on top that cover the diaphragm cover. There is no way to get a small vise grip or impact screwdriver inside the barrel. With the pilot jet changed to the 55 and the main changed to the 152.5 and a dyna muffler how will it run compared to stock jets and stock muffler...any idea, because the only way I see to get the screws out is to drill them and I really don't have the set up to do it.
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bill67
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Re: rejetting and white spacer
Reply #4 -
07/31/08 at 14:03:10
You would get better gas mileage I would try it.
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william h krumpen
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northshore_paul
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Re: rejetting and white spacer
Reply #5 -
07/31/08 at 14:07:56
You say I would get better gas mileage...does that mean leaving the white spacer stock and the setup I described with the jets??
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bill67
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Re: rejetting and white spacer
Reply #6 -
07/31/08 at 15:27:46
yes that what I was talking about
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william h krumpen
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seviersavage
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Re: rejetting and white spacer
Reply #7 -
07/31/08 at 16:17:13
I had a heck of a time with those two little screws. Also I didn't realize you can pull the whole thing out of the carb. I ended up using a dremel tool to drill the screws and an easy out to get them loose.
I myself have a dyna muffler and half spacer and thats all except adjusting the air fuel mixture screw. I've totally eliminated back firing and had a nice increase in throttle response but kept my mileage.
Those screws are a bugger but worth the trouble to do the white spacer mod.
Seviersavage
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northshore_paul
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Re: rejetting and white spacer
Reply #8 -
07/31/08 at 18:57:40
You must have had a very long bit in order to reach it or did you drill it out from the bottom?
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T Mack 1 - FSO
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Re: rejetting and white spacer
Reply #9 -
08/01/08 at 10:21:14
Ohhhhh those screws.
Go get a new screw drvier. Spend the bucks and get a good one. Then, apply a lot of downward pressure and turn.
Reason for new screwdriver is becuase the tip needs to be so small that they get boggered up real easily. A new tip has nice clean grooves.
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Engineers design things, Technicians make them work.
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30% of being mechanical is confidence/30% is knowing to go slow when needed/30% is looking repeatedly at what you have/10% is dumb luck
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seviersavage
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Re: rejetting and white spacer
Reply #10 -
08/01/08 at 11:00:37
Northshore-Paul
I used a regular sized drill bit with a dremel tool. Only way I could figure out to reach them. Scared the heck out of me doing it but I didn't mess any thing up. Replaced those soft screws with a little better grade 3mm. then used a compressor to blow filings out.
Definately worth doing
Seviersavage
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northshore_paul
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Re: rejetting and white spacer
Reply #11 -
08/01/08 at 11:26:59
T Mack I did the new screwdriver routine yesterday...no luck...but will try again.
Seviersavage...how did you get a Dremel to fit into the barrel? My bits that are the appropriate size are not long enough to get to the bottom of the barrel using a dremel...unless you used the flexible extension. Did you drill thru the head and into the shaft of the screws so you could fit and extractor inside?
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Sarge
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Re: rejetting and white spacer
Reply #12 -
08/01/08 at 11:40:24
I found an extra long drill bit the right daimeter at a well equiped hardware store. Sears even has them sometimes. I could then use my smallest easy-out with a needle nose pliers to extract the buggered up screw. Good luck
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J Mac
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Laissez Les Bon
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Re: rejetting and white spacer
Reply #13 -
08/01/08 at 12:49:00
Oh, sorry, can't read. Those were the only two screws on the bike I didn't have trouble with. All of the ones with that slight orange/bronze color seem to be made of liquid metal or something.
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J Mac
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Re: rejetting and white spacer
Reply #14 -
08/01/08 at 12:53:21
See this recent thread:
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1216955664
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