Charon, Since we don't have any intentional system doing any intentional oiling of that "weak link" cam chain right now I can't see how it can help but help some.  And no, I won't live long enough to "prove" any sort of overall motor life increase in a statistically meaningful fashion, so I am going to have to follow the orange cat's advice on that one.

Verslagen, it sounds like you might be considering getting a bit whimsical yourself.  You want any details on the modifications to the stock Harbor Freight air filter system that had to be done to turn it into a bypass oil filter?

Do you absolutely NEED the check valves -- no.   Ed L runs an oil cooler and he lets the extra oil run back into the sump.  At start up he is splashing some extra oil, then the oil pump fills up his cooler and it is out of the sump until he cuts it off again.  I think I understand Ed to say he meters the fill on his oil system by checking it to see it is "in the sight glass" while it is idling sitting straight upright after warm up.  

I do know from watching his bike do it that Savages will exit any accidentally grossly overfilled oil out the air box through the bypass vapor system, so any total system overfill isn't going to hang around too long anyway.   And yeah, it is very noticable while this is going on with the white smoke and all.

Me, I don't like the idea of potentially dirty trash laden backflow oil seeping back out of the dirtyest part of the front side of the bypass filter going back down the lines to contaminate the main pressurized oil passage while the bike is sitting on the sidestand.  This backflow could get pumped up to the head bearings when you started back up.  

That's just me though.  I really wouldn't worry about the clean side of the bypass filter all that much, so yeah you could do without the clean side check valve as you are pumping uphill on that side to the top of the head anyway with your configuration.

Got enough room for a 12"x4" total envelope down where that carbon canister used to sit?

Yep, got to dump it somewhere -- might as well be somewhere that it will do some good.

Actually, I will dump it in the head pool area and rig a raised pool lip and a aimed channel "exit" for the pool that will lube both the cam chain and where it goes down the front guide surface.

Deeper pool means more splashing of cam lobes into the pool and more oil carried up and over the tappet faces as well.

Oldfeller--FSO wrote on 01/25/09 at 10:34:05:

in the area of the canister, maybe 8"x4"sq
another option would be between the plates of someones forward controls.
Yogurt has been putting thoughts into my head about a cheap oil cooler for some time.  Now I did find the adapters cheap, but shipping has doubled the cost and Yogurt is frowning at me (I think)  Any body want to do a group buy on adapters?
But as I mentioned before, an at home dialysis machine for thumper is a thought.

Oldfeller--FSO wrote on 01/25/09 at 19:20:02:


Hmmmmm...  maybe I'm a Nervous Nellie.   I would be concerned about splitting the oil volume (not pressure) away from the tranny & cam journal.  

You will need to make sure the "path of least resistance" is still the stock oil passages.   I'm not sure how you would do that.   Maybe real small oil lines and more "head" to lift against?

  How many more miles do you thing an s40 will go with a differenced oil filter vs stock filter?

Spent some time at work figuring.  

Dangerous, that figuring stuff.

Oil pump is a constant volume pump, one rev moves X amount of oil -- I tested the theory using known data discussed up-thread and indeed a constant of between .0035 and .0037 thingamabobs per rev seems to act like a constant volume pump should act.

(very technical, them thingamabobs -- we don't know exactly how big they really are but they do calculate like a constant between 1,000 rpm and 3,500 rpm -- give or take .0002 thingamabobs for some measurement uncertainty)

===================

So, we are saying that lubrication to the head is "minimal" at 1,000 rpm and Suzuki splits it between tranny and head with a metered selected orifice with the lesser amount going to the tranny (Verslagen will get the diameter number for us) with all remaining volume going to the head bearings.

This pressure at 1,000 rpm is 2-4 psi (average is 3 psi).  If I go to 9 psi as the crack pressure on the check valve I would only get there when my RPMs are up to around 3000 rpm.   So volume of oil available at 3,000 rpm should be at least 3 times what it is at 1,000 rpm.

So, if I have twice the volume at the same 2-4 psi pressure, I can supply 2 tranny orifice holes and the head with similar flows of oil to what Suzuki gives the bike stock at 1,000 rpm.  Nice theory, right?  

So at 3,000 rpm I would have 3 times the volume moving along at more than 3 times the original psi with head, tranny and extra passage getting a good bit more than it does at 1,000 rpm idle speeds.

Now why do I think that at 9 psi the 1/4" check valve is going to have a case of the flutters because whenever it opens initially the pressure in the distribution tunnel is going to drop some, shutting down the valve temporarily.  

Eventually it would even out somewhat with a 9 psi volume going on to tranny and the head bearing clearances being fed at 9 psi at all times with a remainder of the volume going out to the bypass filter in little 9 psi down to zero mini pulses.


================  Recap of thoughts ============

Stock Engine

The stock unmodified engine sees pressure as a function of the tranny hole and the head bearing clearances being fed at whatever max pressure that particular engine gets out of that particular oil viscosity with the output volume being constant.  Volume is constant at a given max rpm, pressure shown on a pressure gage goes up or down with temperature & oil viscosity.  And yep, this is what really happens.

Add just an extra hole to a stock engine and that pressure figure is going to drop a good bit as you are splitting the the volume out 3 ways.


With 9 psi Check Valve and a third hole

Add a pressure sensitive check valve and the head and tranny get whatever pressure it is set at and the remainder of volume stutters on out to the bypass filter in little 9 psi down to zero psi mini pulses.  

You will never really exceed that check valve set pressure as it auto regulates out the available volume to the third pathway using the set pressure as a constant and the stutter volume out the third leg as the moving variable.

If you ever did go over 9 psi it would indicate the third leg orifice was finally satisfied at a pressure greater than 9 psi.  I don't think it would really ever happen if the orifice was same size as the tranny orifice.

You mean figure 243 on page 130, little brass thing that looks like a pilot jet?   WTF?  

(You get to look at it again on page 137 figure 271)

Ain't that a little cutie-pie, a little oil controlling pilot jet.   Is the end of it blind or does it have a through hole?   If so how big is the through hole?

4 side holes x .049" = .196" summed diameter in side passages but I bet the sum of the side holes is bigger than the thru hole (if one exists).   I betcha you have to do it as a summed area comparison instead of a simple diameter ... jet tricks, I'll be darned.

Pilot jet flow tricks to control oil flow, who woulda thought that ....

What did they do, just plug in different jets until they found one yielded the restriction characteristics that they wanted?

I've been thinking of plugging in a pump and filter once you get home.

I was looking for a system and seeing the truck guys do something similar.

I bowsed the internet, finding home oil change kits that syphon the oil out of the filler tube but nothing like the truck guys transfer pump and filter.  And of course we have no filler tube into the sump.

So the options are add a syphon tube or a quick connect to the drain plug.
Next problem, how to make sure the right amount of oil is in the case when you are done.  Hmmm, if the syphon tube went down only to the oil level, then if it were over filled you could suck it back out.
filtering will be done by OF's hyper filter.
How to pump... could get a vw gear pump and fit it to a electric motor... or could a air compressor (one of them little 12v tire inflators) do the job?  yeah yeah dem little chits aren't made to do that, may explode.  But I got a couple laying around that don't work anymore.  I'm gonna have to go by the inventors candy store this weekend.