Message sent 12-3-12 and on 1-3-13I got a new Lancer Mikuni VM 36 carb. I wanted to keep the stock battery, but didn't want to keep the stock airbox. Here's how I did it.
First off, I have to tip my hat to Lancer, he put a lot of effort into getting this carb all put together for me. He installed the Dial-a-Jet, UFO, throttle cable, and soldered the pilot jet for me. He even slipped in a new spark plug and deep well float bowl nut without charging me. (did you know you did that??? thanks!)
Of course his packing materials were interesting, he must have access to healthcare supplies. I don't even know what they are called, but I know how they are used. That made me laugh.
I had already removed the airbox and untaped and moved around and retaped all the wires under the seat. I even put in a charger for my cell phone. The CDI got mounted to the bottom of the seat and that went pretty easy. {I don't have a picture right now, will post one later}
Then it was off to the hardware store with the air filter in hand to find some weird combination of things that served my purposes. I wanted to get over the battery box and drop the filter in the triangle shaped space where the airbox used to be.
Surprisingly 2" PVC is almost and exact fit! So I got a 90 degree street elbow and a foot of the thin PVC. There's schedule 40 and then there's the thinner kind which would give more air flow. Here's what the "thinner type" looks like.
A street elbow has one male and one female side. The male fits right into the filter (slightly loose, but not after you tighten a hose clamp on it) and in the female side, the straight pipe goes.
I searched for something to connect the other male end of the straight pipe to the carb. I found a few different things, but I liked this best. It's a no hub coupling. Basically it's a rubber gasket with metal around it and two hose clamps riveted in place. And it looks cool too.
I also needed a breather filter and spray paint. Kryon Fusion is about the only way to go for PVC, everything else comes off.
So I cut it to the right size, and used regular pvc primer and glue to put the one male/female fitting together.
grind off all the markings and bumps and such, sand it (I did 100 grit, then 220, that's what I had around), and washed it with some dawn, (my hand were pretty dirty at that point), painted it and waited an hour before playing with it again.
Not the prettiest, but functional.
The fit of the coupling took a bit of figuring out. It is a really tight fit, really tight. (someone's going to quote that and comment
) So it took me a while, but here's what I did.
First I cut out the divider on the inside. It is right in the middle and the coupling doesn't go that far on to the carb. I wanted the pvc to mesh right up to the carb underneath the couping.
Then I finally realized that the rubber is only so tight because of the metal around it. So I took that off, put on the rubber fitting, and then opened the metal really wide and slid that on. Here's an example before I painted it.
The rest of the process was simply fitting everything in. I had to push up the metal tab holding that electronic box thing under the gas tank to route the new throttle cable. And I had to find a new home for the little box.
The breather tube and the new breather filter were the same size, so I found a piece of hard plastic tubing (it was actually the handle on an old bottle, and that was a perfect fit).
And so here's what it looks like from a few different angles.
The cost was about $25 bucks for the air intake. I suppose if you found the right size hose instead of the coupling I used, you could do it for under $20.
I'm working on tuning it right now. It's mostly there.
I welcome any comments or suggestions for improvement.
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