LANCER wrote on 03/17/14 at 04:59:21:



Here's the link.

http://www.diablocycle.com/Safety-Standards-Decal.html

They have all kinds of decals and stickers and badges for vintage bikes.

Amazing bike ...you have such talent!!!!

Sure is PERTY

wolfsgrin wrote on 03/22/14 at 20:05:48:


My rear rim is a 2.50 x 18 with a 130/70-18 Pirelli Sport Demon.  The front rim is a 2.15 x 18 with a 100/80-18 Pirelli Sport Demon.  

Be careful just buying any Excell rim from ebay.  Most are set up for a more modern hub with a disc brake, and the punched holes in the rim will not be the correct angle for the drum brake on the Savage.  The nipples may not screw onto the spokes - or if they do the spokes may end up not being straight and may have a bend in them  (Not Good).

v-pilot wrote on 03/23/14 at 20:52:50:


I don't think the rim width hurts anyting.....but you don't want a rim that is too wide for the tire you use.....and tire height and width is a factor with the stock swingarm and belt drive.  The 18" rim and tire combination is larger diameter than the stock setup, and with the 130/70-18 Sport Demon there was plenty of room with the stock pulley set up.  It might have been possibel to go with the 140 size....not sure.

When you say the RYCA modified your swingarm.....I assume they clearanced the front for a larger tire.....as is necessary when you use the vintage tread tires.  I modified my swingarm in order to allow me to use any combination of the Kawasaki Pulleys.....and I may try the 140 size tire next time if a larger tire will help handling any.....I have a friend with road racing experience and lot of street smarts that can help me sort that question out.

When I see the tire options that are available in 17".....I wonder if that might be a better choice when shopping for tires.  Most sport bikes use 17" wheels and it seems the sticky tires all come in that diameter.

Gerry:

The two scariest parts of my build were mounting the side panels, and wiring the handlebar switches.

Next time I have the side covers off I will take some pictures - here is what I currently have in my files.

I first established where I wanted a hole in the top rear, and then made a bracket that mounted to the upper shock stud and had a hole in just the right spot for the side panel.  I could leave the flat tab bolted to the shock mount when I removed the side pantel.....and then I mounted a long screw through the hole with a piece of steel rod that I had bored and threaded - the flat piece bolted to the shock held the part where I wanted to weld it.  Both left and right sides were the same so the tab could be used on both sides of the bike.  The length was trimmed later.  I had wet towels protecting the stuff I didn't want to burn up with the weld splatter.  You can see the chrome acorn nut for the shock in this photo.



This is what it looked like after trimming to length and painting.  You can see the shock mount below the mount in this photo.



For the front I did something similar.  I found a spot in the side cover that lined up well with the top frame tube.  I drilled a small hole in the side cover at that spot - then marked the frame top tube.  I then trilled a hole in the frame and tapped it to the correct screw size....then I put the screw through a barrel nut and put the screw in the threaded hole and then welded on the barrel nut.  I once again trimmed it to length once I had them all welded on and could check the fit of the panel.



The bottom was done the same way.  On the bottom right I welded a tab to the frame that has a nut welded in the correct spot.  On the left side I welded a tab and nut onto the top of the belt guard.

This photo might help to show about where they ended up.

gorgeous Dave...words escape me buddy  

I will say that checkerboard running front to back is the perfect touch