Right arteacher, however leaving them on wears out that 1/2 of the amp. Power supply caps, rectifier, trafo, any switching in that section etc etc ...

You'd kill those in 3-4000 hours of use for caps, 5-8K for rectifier bridges, about the same for transistors and maybe 100K for the mains trafo. The rest of the amp - power amp and what not, will run 10-20 years cos they are used when they are making sound ...

Anyway there are big amps in some cases power on in 3-4 stages. But they power off proper when you hit off.
Carver is the mad scientist of audio. He'd make a unbelievably powerful and sweet sounding amp like the 7 mono blocks - 575 watts of cap coupled power into 8 ohm with .005% distortion, and put a 20c switch for powering it on. Cheap plastic crap. Yuck.

Cool.
Srinath.

Face wrote on 04/26/13 at 19:11:47:

That was just to show off the system.
I normally listen at 90-95 db.

Arteacher: I am not sure your amp is on when its off. Not all B&K's are ... that avr507 was.

Face: Planar mag's and electrostats work as a tweeter ... they suck as a full range. I would spend 1/10th on a high end woofer and a mid, and run the ribbons as a tweeter. 5K and up ... brilliant.
For daily general listening I prefer horns though ... have to be metal ...
I also like AMT's, but my heil's really are mids, they dont work as a front set.

Cool.
Srinath.

But they are 85db - and 30-18K - I have hybrids with electrostat tweets no less that are 22-25K and 93 db if I recall.
Anyway in a way nothing but horns work in the front in my house ... I have heils as mids - nothing else works there as well.
The only ones I play around with are the rear.
Cool.
Srinath.

arteacher wrote on 04/28/13 at 15:43:39:


Ha ... I like the treble, the wife likes the bass. If it dont cover like 3hz to 33.33K hz one if us gonna be unhappy ...
Cool.
Srinath.

Since we have totally hijacked this thread I will outline my stereo set.
Thorens TD 160 MKII turntable (heavily modded) with a Magneplanar tone arm and a Blue point Special EvoII cartridge.
Thorens TD 145 converted to a TD 160 with a less expensive cart for the bad records.
Project tube phono preamps.
Rega Jupiter CD player.
MacIntosh 65 tuner.
A JVC cassett deeck that was one of the best you could buy in it's day.
Bryston BP 26 Preamp.
Classe CA300 amp.
Magneplanar MG 1.6s with upgraded crossover components.
Nordost wires.
All kinds of homemade room treatments. There is NO slap echo anywhere in the room, which has, by pure luck, Golden Rule perportions.
I also have an old Fischer tube amp (12W/side) which drove my old Maggies (SMGs, which I still have) acceptably well.
Oh and a custom made(by me) chair that looks awful but is VERY comfortable.

I am seriously considering trading the 1.6s in on 3.7s.

Art: JVC casette decks - ha - one of those massive silver jobs with round buttons that light up under the cassette door ... any time I see/hear JVC I immediately think sleeper ... even their newer HT amps are bloody good with very little awareness or fan following ...

I recently picked up a pioneer elite CT 91a cassette deck, - 40 bloody lb ... and I have been using its denon competetion a few weeks.
Sold a Nak LX5, yamaha K1000 after the denon came in, and now that the ct 91 is here (it needs fixing) I may turn round and sell the denon.

I've had 1 thorens ... flipped it for a clean $125 profit after getting the weird 16v ac power supply for it ... I am not mch of a belt drive guy.

Have 3-4 direct dr - again the favorite being a JVC QL-y5f (or some idiotic numbering like that) and a few pioneers, fishers ... and 3-4 idler wheel duals ... I like fixing those, but am not impressed with those either ... and I had a rotel rp1000 - turned a profit on it too but wasn't impressed ... I think direct drive is it for me. I want to modify one of em into a record cleaner ... and use the jvc and sell all the rest.

I sold 5-6 pre amps ... have a dead c2 carver sitting here and a pityful proton that I got working for someone, only to have him no show me with the busted parasound he was gonna bring as trade ...
Sold the 1 mac 754 have the other one, sold a Luxman L430, sold a bunch ... I have a few tube amps and the carvers but all the rest is not even mid fi ... low fi ... Look @ charlotte NC craigslist and look for "3878" in electronics for some of the stuff ... the mc 754 is on there now.

Face: Ooooo You said Boehlender Graebner ... I have neo 8's, had neo 3's - the extra sensitivity almost requires one of em zobel's in the X over ... the 8's dont usually in a 3 way and may be in a 2 way ...

But no 48 or 75's ...
Not horn loaded metal dome ... more like phenolic domes with metal horns. The Ti domes of crites and the ilk ... too bright and not in a good way.

I like berillium too ... never had a NS1000, but had plenty of its brethren including my favorite monitor sizes NS25 - again can you say sleeper.

I've also got several other types ... Ti or al dome in the Onkyo E 53 (JBL L100 killers replete with sealed cabinets not ported like the jbl's)

Here is the kicker ... the 400 I paid for the mac pair would be the single priciest item on the list. I scored a pair of EV's ... 60's 3 ways with the X8, X36 cross overs, the T35 tweeter horn and M1832 mid horn (16" wide 4.5' tall cast aluminum) and the sp12 whizzer cone complete with EV attenuators on the back ... a scarcley believeable $20. The EV triaxials in gorgeous home made, sealed raw silk fronted cabinets - $15.
I made a lot of audio mistakes in my first 2 years ... and essentially picked up good looking junk for decent prices. The next 2 years I basically flipped them all for around what I paid for em ... or paid for their replacements. I still have a few BS pieces ... but most of this I got as payments for working on other junk ... I would trade 1 dead receiver of x value when fixed, for working on another receiver of x value labor only. Mostly it works out, but some fools try to stiff me ... like the proton pre amp guy.

Cool.
Srinath.

Agreed....

The other option would be some new HEAVY iron output trafos with multiple impedance taps on the secondary windings. Those can get pricey tho. Otherwise higher ohm speakers are the way to go.

Out of curiosity, does the Fischer list a load rating?