I'mmmm Baaaack... After my last post that went 5 pages (Dies under load) the bike ran awesome again for a few days after replacing the float, float pin and adjusting the float level and now it's doing the exact same thing again.  Exactly the same scenario as the last several times in the last several months; Bike decides it doesn't want to run, I tear into the carb, clean it, replace something or adjust something, bike runs awesome for a few days then blub, blub, blub, dead, again.  No, it's not bad gas or the float, float pin, valve, valve body, filter, float level, etc., cause it's all been replaced and adjusted along with nearly everything else that could be replaced or adjusted in this carburetor.  I'm done chasing the phantom menace so I ordered a new Lancer carb.  It was on my list of things to do anyway.

So while the bike's down I went in to check and adjust the valves.  First time since I bought the bike back in June.  Zero clearance on all intake and exhaust valves.  Assuming any previous valve adjustment was made properly... Anyone know what could cause zero valve lash on a cold engine and what problems could crop up due to zero valve lash?  In my previous post someone had mentioned checking the valve lash but I was busy chasing phantoms elsewhere.        

Arcreefer,

You are not at TDC.

Read Serowbot's post about finding TDC.
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1278347767

Read Verslagen's post about valve adjusting.
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1325991352

I guess you managed to get the timing cover off without and significant difficulty?

Kenny G

Yea,  it's TDC Kenny.  Spot on and zero valve lash.

arcreefer, 1)  You could be at TDC on the exhaust stroke  2) you need to pull the sparkplug so your not fighting the piston compression  3)you need to rotate the motor turning it the same direction the wheels turn.( the clymers  has it backwards)  4) with the valve covers off you can feel the intakes open, then turn to line up the timing mark.    If the valves really have no clearance they may not ever seat ,they need to seat to allow them to give up heat to the head,(cool),if not they may burn causing damage and loss of compression.

Batman... Yep.  spun the engine 6 or 7 times with the spark plug out and valve inspection coves off watching the valve rockers (intake & exhaust) come up to tdc and aligning the groove & notch.  I did use clymers so I rotated clockwise.  couldn't find any clearance between the set screw and valve stem, which is why I spun it a half dozen times.  I could understand if just one had zero clearance, but all of them? no way.  Yes Way.   Zero clearance.

Justin... Breaker bar?  

Hey, I want you guys to know I really appreciate the help.  Probably drove ya'll nuts with the last post that went 5 pages.  I'll be diving back into it over the next couple weeks, check the valves and let you know what I find.

The crankshaft rotates the same direction as the wheels while riding.

I use a 1/4" breaker, 1/4 to 3/8 adapter, then the socket.
Then I position the breaker against the footpeg, so I don't worry about the piston moving.

If you'll go slow enough to allow the compression to bleed off through the ring end gaps it won't over rotate.
I'm not that patient.