Where the return spring sit

I'm not picking on your work, I love it.  I just want you to be safe!!  

I used the OEM brackets to give me the bolt needed bolt pattern.  I added some extra material to the bottom and welded all sides of the tubing to the bracket.  




I'm not a pro welder (and I borrowed a 110v Mig welder that struggled a bit), but I know I got good penetration.  I really struggled to get that thing to burn hot enough and I had to run the wire feed faster than I would have liked.  The result was I put down a little more weld than I would have liked but it was the only way I could keep a pool of material hot enough to get some penetration on the work pieces.  (I think thinner wire might have helped but I'm not sure.  I know I could have done better on a 220v mig or a tig with a little practice.)  


   

View from under bike looking up. The tab to which the spring is attached is welded to the brake rod lever on the pedal shaft.

The shifter set up is simple.  I used an XS650 shift lever with the splines drilled out. Welded an arm on it and kept the center to center length the same as the factory arm that's on the shifter shaft. That kept the relative movement between the two at 1:1. I welded a flat tab on the XS400 foot peg bracket, and then welded a pivot shaft for the lever on that. The relay rod is a hybrid with 6 MM threads on one end for the stock arm and 1/4-28 on the other end for a Heim joint.

As I approached the side stand project, the well known problems with ground clearance caused by repurposing the stock part became apparent, so I went digging through my parts stash for alternatives. A bent and junked XS650 frame (never throw anything away) yielded a possible solution. The XS650 stand had a couple of advantages over all the others. First, it mounted with the pivot facing inboard, which keeps it closer to the centerline of the bike. Second, it's a self contained package which doesn't require figuring out where the upper spring mount should be. The job required using the forged mounting lug from the frame, or the ability to machine one that's functionally the same. The bracket uses the rear engine mounting bolt and a crossmember similar to the Ryca stand.

Assembled stand viewed from inboard side. The two holes are for the crossmember bolts .

Crossmember. The M10 mounting bolt only passes through Ryca's piece on the left side and utilizes the tab holding the brake cable on the right. I added a tab through which the mounting bolt passes to the right side, in addition to using the existing frame tab.

Stand deployed.