Finally got some sunshine and time to dig into my project today. If time allows I'll get the fiberglass pan done tomorrow and then I can work on upholstery while I wait for the rest of the parts to come in.

List of changes:
Clubman bars
motone 3button switches
M.unit
Motoscope mini Speedo/tacho w/combi holder
New signals all around
New head and tail lights
Subframe and hoop weld
340mm rear shocks (lower brackets relocated)
8cell lithium battery
17/52 chain conversion
Supertrapp muffler
Ryca pod filter
K&N breather filter
Lsk fuel gauge sending unit

Photos here: https://m.imgur.com/a/1FBcv9o

The build is looking good, but your welding scares me.  Everything I see is not acceptable for road use.  You want good penetration and should see some discoloring/bluing roughly 1/4" to each side of your weld.  Keep practicing on something other than your bike and then reweld or take it to a professional to go over it.

Cool.  This guy is a really good teacher and has great videos: http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/Mig-welding-tips.html

You want that sound. If you are struggling, get it mocked up and let a professional tidy everything up for you when you get done.   If you get good weld penetration, but the look isn't what you want, don't be ashamed of the flap wheel.   You just want to make sure it's safe.  

Are you using wire feed?  MIG with gas?  Looks like 120v?  

I borrowed a 120v MIG on my build and it was a little tough to dial in.  I was able to get strong welds, but I wished for a little more heat, but it just wouldn't weld well at the highest settings. I had to weld a little slower to get the penetration and ended up with a tad more filler than I would have liked.  Slowing the wire feed down just burned off the tip of the wire.  Just part of the territory when using a cheap welder, but you should be able to get decent results.   

Filling in the pin holes is like adding glue.  Not really what you want.  Maybe okay for the subframe, merely okay, at best.  But you want to make sure you get a good weld on those shock mounts.

You welds look like they might be too cold and you're just "dripping" material in there.  Or you wire feed could be too fast and it's killing the burn.  I can't tell without hearing or seeing what's going on, but your settings are off.

Here is a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kI7GOVrB33c  

Listen to the sound and look at how much filler gets laid into the joint.  More importantly, you should see the weld melted into the metal at the edges.  Get some scrap similar to your hoop and test with a higher temperature.  See if you can get that sizzle while getting penetration and building up the joint with some filler.

All that work on shock mounts and chain conversion and your left shock is way out in left field. A little more work and you can move the left shock in about 3/4”. You will thank me when you are done it looks so much better.

I made new lower mount and carefully removed the support for upper cut and rewelded it then welded support back in place. Fabled a special jig to keep upper straight while welding.

Ah I see, clevis in place of the oem mount and then shorten the top to match. At this point I'll stick to fixing my welds and calling it good. If the 340 shocks end up not working out maybe I'll revisit them and the mounts when I get around to putting together some rearset.

Beautiful work!

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