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partially stripped threads (Read 118 times)
springman
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partially stripped threads
12/25/19 at 16:06:12
 
I noticed my muffler was loose. I ended up taking it off and found that the 2  holes onto which the muffler is attached to the the head are partially stripped. My thoughts are that I will buy 2 new bolts and screw them in and out a few times to try to clean up the thread and then hopefully just attach the muffler again. Attached is a picture of one of the bolts that I cleaned up a good bit but it still shows metal in the thread groove about half way up the bolt. If anybody has any other suggestions please let me know. Thanks.
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badwolf
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Re: partially stripped threads
Reply #1 - 12/25/19 at 16:58:05
 
If you have a correct size tap run it in and out. Bottoming tap prefrred.
If you don't have access to a tap, take a new bolt and make two cuts up and down the threads and run it in and out to scrape out the krap.
If the threads are beyond that, you need Helicoil inserts. I think it would be possiable to put them in w/o removing the head.
Those bolts should always be installed with anti-seize to prevent just what happened to you.
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springman
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Re: partially stripped threads
Reply #2 - 12/25/19 at 18:12:02
 
Thanks badwolf, I'll do as you say.
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MMRanch
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Re: partially stripped threads
Reply #3 - 12/25/19 at 21:09:38
 
Springman

Don't ever put another bolt into those holes !   Really !!!  Smiley

Put Studs into those holes and coat the Studs with muffler putty before you put them in .    From now on you will only take the nuts off the studs to remove the pipe.   I'll help you look for studs if you need , but I think Tractor Supply has them but any good hardware will fix you right up .    Be sure to get long-enough studs , do you measuring seriously.   Wink

https://www.ebay.com/itm/8mm-Exhaust-Manifold-Stud-M8x1-25-Pack-of-4-Studs-Sh...

check to make sure they are 8mm , I'm not sure but I think so ???   The Studs need to go all-the-way to the bottom of the holes to make sure they grab as much thread as possible .

go for a threaded rod if you can't find studs long enough.   You double nut the studs to put them in , then take both nuts to the other one to install it.
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« Last Edit: 12/25/19 at 22:17:29 by MMRanch »  

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jcstokes
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Re: partially stripped threads
Reply #4 - 12/25/19 at 23:45:34
 
Pardon the ignorance, but I thought it was a stud with a cap nut.
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Re: partially stripped threads
Reply #5 - 12/26/19 at 07:08:58
 
That's what it should be and the muffler putty helps keep the stud in place.

Mine came with  bolts that was replaced with studs as soon as I found them.  

Something else :  Aluminum swells more than steel , so if you remove the nut from the stud while the engine head is hot then you are very likely to get the stud out instead of the nut off.  Roll Eyes

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Re: partially stripped threads
Reply #6 - 12/26/19 at 08:03:20
 
If you're going the stud route, be sure to use stainless steel nuts with ample hi-temp anti-seize. And don't use lock washers.
Or, you can go the old-school route using brass exhaust nuts. They don't corrode and have reduced likelihood of coming loose given the differential in expansion rates. Not very common in the states. However, they're the same as used on many models of VW air-cooled engines. And still use hi-temp anti-seize.
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Re: partially stripped threads
Reply #7 - 12/26/19 at 18:08:31
 
Thanks gentlemen. If I go the studs route should I try to clean the threads first with a tap or just install the studs?

Also, I found some studs at Oreilly but it appears they are a few millimeters short on the end that goes into the head, 1/8" maybe, do you think that would matter?
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Re: partially stripped threads
Reply #8 - 12/26/19 at 22:22:10
 
Well , Bolt are the worse possible thing you could do .   Those threads in the head don't need the wear and tear.

The studs you found ... do they leave enough thread sticking out to hold the exhaust flange on ?  Long thread into the head.   If they do then go for it and use high temp thread lock or exhaust putty to help them stay put.    You don't ever want to remove them once they are in place.    
If you ever did need to take them out you can heat the studs to glowing red hot to break them loose , then let them cool , then heat the aluminum head to swell the hole and they will screw out as easy as they went in.

You know what we mean by using double nuts to screw them in don't you?  

Just a little putty on the threads now ... you don't want putty at the bottom of the hole , just a little to fill-in the imperfections in the threads and supply some lube for installation .
Heating the Aluminum holes and leaving the stainless steel studs cold should let you just snug them up when you put them in.   Don't under-estimate the size difference temperature makes on metals  ...  be careful not to strip them when ya snug-em-up ...

Don't nobody Loves your baby as much as you do ... take care of it.  Smiley
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Re: partially stripped threads
Reply #9 - 12/26/19 at 23:14:02
 
I'd rather have a leak I can fix than tear something up trying to get it too tight.

You do understand about double nuts,right?
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Re: partially stripped threads
Reply #10 - 12/27/19 at 01:08:42
 
Geez, this topic has got me thinking. I've done a lot of on/off with my header pipe - changing mufflers etc. My bike (2014) came with bolts for the header. I've taken the advice from other topics here - screw them in with fingers as far as they will go, then snug them up with minimum tension on the ratchet (I also just installed a new gasket). The idea of installing studs sounds like a super idea. The less 'in and out' on the threads in the head makes a lot of sense.

It seems I need to learn about double nuts. (I was gonna do a Google search but .... that's some provocative search term!)   Grin
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Re: partially stripped threads
Reply #11 - 12/27/19 at 03:03:15
 
jcstokes wrote on 12/25/19 at 23:45:34:
Pardon the ignorance, but I thought it was a stud with a cap nut.


He he he, been there, suffered that, and have one I have to do on my newly acquired savage - so here is a long suffering POV. I thought so too, apparently stupid Suzuki thought it was just as good to make regular bolt heads look like acorn nuts … or maybe it was just april fools day when they built these bikes.
You see that shank right by the "acorn nut" you see how that has no threads ??? That = its a regular bolt. If it was a stud and your bolt head happened to an acorn nut that just wouldn't let go - that part will have threads atleast 1-2 visible right by the head.

Cool.
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Re: partially stripped threads
Reply #12 - 12/27/19 at 05:03:46
 
IslandRoad wrote on 12/27/19 at 01:08:42:
Geez, this topic has got me thinking. I've done a lot of on/off with my header pipe - changing mufflers etc. My bike (2014) came with bolts for the header. I've taken the advice from other topics here - screw them in with fingers as far as they will go, then snug them up with minimum tension on the ratchet (I also just installed a new gasket). The idea of installing studs sounds like a super idea. The less 'in and out' on the threads in the head makes a lot of sense.

  Grin


I don't think you need to worry about how often you remove and install the exhaust bolts, as long as you clean them up and use a good anti-seize on the threads each time you install the bolts......and never remove or install them while the engine is hot - and only snug them up with one hand.
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Re: partially stripped threads
Reply #13 - 12/27/19 at 07:16:25
 
Double Nut thing =

let two nuts meet in the middle of the threaded area , tighten them against each other , now you've got a place to put your wrench !  Torque the stud into the hole.  Now you can loosen the nuts away from each other and move to the other stud.

Stainless and a lube of some sort is good ,  especially when dealing with Aluminum !
..................................

Aluminum has a lot of wonderful traits !  
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Re: partially stripped threads
Reply #14 - 12/27/19 at 11:09:33
 
Yeah I thru out the oem bolts and installed studs into the head , stainless with never seize and then double nuts on each stud. Definitely more secure and no worries about stripping the holes , total cost was 5 bucks.
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