Anyone have a good clutch assembly diagram?
My clymers actually discusses and has pics of two totally different clutches. It also says something about two washers, one larger than the other, that affect oil flow to the clutch?
I didn't see them when I was in it.
I did install the oil pump drive backward, but haven't run the bike, so I'm going back into it tomorrow.

If you don't have the The Savage Companion Photo CD, get it:

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1199986392

Lots of good pictures about the clutch.

Exact same as the parts breakdown, well maybe even clearer.

I keep reading about some pin that one needs to take special care not drop/lose or else the oil pump doesn't engage. Is that something I should keep in mind if I want to disassemble the clutch basket?

Armchair, the pin in question is piece (26) in the illustration that Gary posted.  It's best to install some sort of cleanliness plugs in the openings in the crankcase before you try to pull off the clutch assembly.  It's easy to lose the pin.  It can drop out and roll into the crankcase.

The pin locks the oil pump drive gear (27) to the clutch basket.  If the pin isn't installed the drive gear won't turn with the clutch basket.

that's a shame... time to fire the mechanic.
not that anyone couldn't have made the same mistake.
no oil at speed will most likely take years off the engine.

there's also a possibility that the gear was installed backward and disengage with the pump gear.  both can easily be checked before sealing up.

I just shot this video and sent to my mechanic. I just hope my engine isn't toast at this point - he did the clutch twice, first time with Barnett springs and it was dragging badly, and then second time around with stock springs. I could've put on about 600 miles on the bike since then with the oil pump disengaged.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zx6pIK9G-7I

OCH, fantastic video.  You did a great job on that video.  It should go in the tech section with a title like "Oil Pump Drive Pin - Installation Problem".  One of the moderators should grab that link and put it in the tech section.

All is not lost.  You have a number of things in your favor.

1.  The heavy wear on the engine case (around the transmission input bearing) shows that the gear was turning.  Based on the amount of wear (sufficient to hold the gear centered around the shaft when you release it) indicates that it was turning a lot and there must have been significant driving force.  The pin might have remained in place for the entire time you ran the engine, or at least most of the time you ran the engine.

2.  You removed the head cover, so you know what things look like in there.  I suspect the head assembly would be the first area in the engine that would fail due to low or no oil pressure.  Since you had the head cover off, you know what things look like in there.  As I recall, your valve clearance was normal (always a good sign), but you mentioned that the cam looked unusual.  If you have some pictures, maybe you could post them.  We could help you assess any damage.

3.  The engine was still operational when you started taking it apart, so you don't have any valves stuck open.

4.  Now you know for certain that the mechanic you were using is not a very good mechanic.  It's great that you shared that video with him/her.  It will help the mechanic learn and improve.  I am anxious to hear about the mechanic's response.  Also, curious to hear if the mechanic will reach out to you and try to compensate you for the trouble and damage.  They should at least return every penny of your money.

5.  You are learning a whole bunch of stuff, improving your skills, and probably acquiring a bunch of new tools.

Keep at it brother.  Don't give up.