Would this be the box in question?  Was it located directly above the carburetor?  Five wires going to the box (ooops, six wires on the older models)?  If yes, that is the decompression relay.

Howzabout posting pics of your igniter unit spades?  I can see you have a pic of the box in the earlier post, can you shoot a pic of the spades and socket?

What year is your bike?  I must be confused.  Thought you had an 87 model.  I think I have you mixed up with another member.

Here's a picture of the back side of my igniter connector. It has two holes plugged, a black wire with white stripe, a black wire with yellow stripe, an orange wire, a green wire, an orange with white stripe, and a black wire:

Thanks, I obviously had you confused with another member.  You can ignore my comments in reply #11, #12 & #14.  Those pertain to the early model ignition unit that utilized 9 pins.  Your 2011 model has the late model ignitor unit that utilizes 8 pins, just like your picture shows.

Yes, your picture in reply #8 shows the connector for the decompression controller, six pins, five wires (red/white, yellow/black, black/white, yellow/green & black/red).  That controller has two relays inside, one to energize the decompression solenoid, and one to energize the starter relay switch.  So, I suspect that the starter will still function even if the decomp solenoid has been removed.  Your engine cranks so I suspect you can rule out the decomp controller.

Versy, the side stand relay only has four pins.  It does hot up the engine "stop" switch, but the engine "stop" switch then hots up the starter button.  So, if the side stand relay was interrupting power to the ignition system, it would also interrupt power to the starter button.  If that's the case, it shouldn't crank.   Do I have that correct?  

Is this a Ryca cafe?  Do the Ryca kits change out the switch assemblies on the hand controls?
 
This sketch of the late model igniter unit pins may be useful.  It will show you which wires go to which pins, and tell you where the wires go to on the other end.

Yazman wrote on 09/24/22 at 04:23:50:


1) 2011? used TCI's should be available on fleabay.
2) you don't need to drain oil, the connector is near the TCI box.
3) check the wiring coming up near the belt, that's where it usually get eaten.

Connect your meter to these female terminals in the connector plug.  When checking voltage at the orange/white wire and at the black wire, the black lead from your meter should be connected to the engine case, and the red lead from your meter should be connected to the connector plug terminal under test.

The starter relay, positive cable end, and negative cable end looked gross. So, I cut them back and cleaned up all the terminals. The black wire on the ignitor connector now has 10.71-10.89v, but still no spark.

It must be the ignition box at this point, right?

Ah, I see it was running and then you power washed it.  Did you direct the high-pressure water at the pulley cover, into the pulley cover, onto the pulley, or the underside of the bike below the pulley?  You may have forced water into the wire bundle for the magnetic pickup.  That seems like a longshot since your continuity reading is good, but you may have an issue with insulation resistance to ground.

Check your insulation resistance to ground for the magnetic pickup.  Connect the black wire from your meter to the engine block.  Then connect the red meter wire to the orange pin in the igniter plug.  Resistance should be infinity or very, very high (like megohms high).  

Same thing for the green wire in the igniter plug.  Meter black lead to engine block.  Meter red lead to the green wire pin in the igniter plug.  Resistance should be infinity or very, very high (megohms high).

Here you can see the bulkhead packing for the alternator stator wires and the mag pickup wires.  You may have forced water into the packing, or into the wire bundle running to the igniter unit and voltage regulator.

Your brother-in-law had trouble when he washed it, now you have the same trouble.  I would be lookin hard at places you might have forced water into electrical connectors, plugs, packing, components, etc.

Did you direct high-pressure water at the igniter unit?