Yo Savages,

So, here is the issue -- a few weeks ago, clutch started to slip (barnett clutch pack and springs) , I installed the shortest pushrod, solved the slipping issue, everything was running fine.

Today, I am on my way to work, I notice this absolutely awful buzzing/ticking/knocking sound, I assumed it could be the cam chain tensioner (which I have yet to replace with the Verslavy) -- but here's the thing -- when I pull in the clutch, the sound completely goes away.

Naturally I decided to call out sick and pull the clutch cover, only to find nothing out of the ordinary, no metal pieces in the case or the oil, I inspected everything I could without pulling the basket out, which I just did not feel like doing. Everything seemed fine, so I put the clutch cover back on and hit the road.

There is no loss of performance, no unusual kinks while on the road, but the ticking from the clutch cover is extremely loud -- I can actually feel knocking from exactly where the clutch basket is if I put my hand on that spot.

Any ideas? Possibly the throw-out bearing? the pressure plate bolts were tight, nothing seemed loose.  

Thanks guys

Mike

Thank you for your insights -- I was just inside the motor again today and replaced the gasket, along with the release bearing (which was only minimally worn). the noise persists despite the replacement of the bearing.

I checked the lock nut, albeit without flattening the tab on the lock washer, I just put a 32mm socket on it and checked tightness by hand -- it seemed tight, the basket seemed to have no movement in any direction.

I did notice some very minor, superficial wear on the internal rod of the release arm, exactly where you have some modeling clay in your picture.

Again, no shavings in the oil, no burn marks on the clutch, no performance issues -- just a very high pitched buzzing coming from the clutch. When I look down at the release arm on the motor, I can see it vibrating, leading me to believe that it is the release arm running interference with SOMETHING (basket and clutch bolts looked totally fine. )

here is an additional thought -- I think if the pushrod was hitting that release cam, the cam would be snapped by now given how lame that sintered material is. Just food for thought.

Any other ideas? SOS!

EDIT: is it possible that using the shortest pushrod is causing a bolt from the pressure plate to hit the release arm?

I  am updating this thread because I think there is some important info here regarding pushrods.

There are posts from a member "oldfeller" claiming longer throw out rods prevent slippage -- this is the opposite of the truth. The way this clutch functions, with the rod resting against the cam on the actuating rod, shorter rods become necessary as the clutch wears, as far as I can tell.

I started this thread because, due to slippage, I switched from the middle length to the shortest length rod and it did solve the slippage, however it caused the spring bolts to grind on the actuating arm.

I have since replaced the entire clutch assembly, minus the two washers ( not the lock washer for the clutch retainment nut). And to my dismay found that using the middle length rod caused clutch slippage immediately following the replacement. I have since switched back to the shorter rod, I have ground down the pressure plate/spring bolts with Emory cloth, and the buzzing from Thier interference with the actuating arm has stopped.

Does anyone have any insights into what may have caused me to need to now use the shortest rod despite installing brand new Barnett clutch pack with springs, new basket, new oil pump gear, new throw out bearing etc?

Dave,

It "clicked" for me reading that, and I think you're spot on, thank you for pointing this out it's been driving me crazy.