retro wrote on 06/12/23 at 14:42:22:So what is the issue on hand? Well, I can’t get the idle right…when I first start it, it’ll run for maybe half a minute if that and then shut off due to the slow idle, so I usually just increase the idle until it’s warmed up the motor, then decrease when needed. Not only that, it’s not performing as smoothly as I want it to through shifting gears. It feels rough. There’s oil being spat at me from the fins. I have some pictures. And there’s a dripping, but can’t tell if it’s oil from the bottom of the engine or from the puke tube.
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Before you go making mountains out of molehills...The fact that you are adjusting your idle based on the operating temperature of the bike leads me to believe some of your issues could be due to user error. If it is don't feel bad because most people who didn't grow up around motorcycles, old gas powered tractors, small engines, or Britsh sports cars don't understand what the "choke" does and why it is needed.
MBG choke adjustment cable/knob
1) Regarding your low idle during warmup... That's what the "half-choke" position is for. It brings more fuel to the table during warm up which can take several minutes even in warm weather. It will bring the idle up and keep the bike from stumbling and stalling. This it's only purpose and it's there for this very reason.
The standard starting procedure is "full-choke"*, "half-choke" as soon as it is running, and then start riding to warm it up (don't let it sit on the kickstand idling). After 7-10 minutes of riding push the "choke" in fully and see how it runs. If the bike still idles too low, try using the "half-choke" a bit longer.
*"Full-choke" may not be needed if the bike has been warmed up for the day but that doesn't mean you should completely ignore it. If the bike has been sitting for an hour or longer, it might benefit from using "full-choke". It should fire up easier which is better for the starter and battery.
And NEVER adjust your idle or do any other adjustments while the bike is cold. Riding the bike is the best way to warm it up. Once warm you should set the idle to approximately 1100 rpm and then leave it alone...forever.
Also, understand that a bike that hasn't been running recently is a cold bike no matter how hot it is outside. So the "choke" procedure should still be followed as needed. Even in warm weather, the "half-choke" position should be used. You'll know once you get some experience with it.
2) If you are still having issues. Do what Dave said and eliminate any potential mechanical issues. The petcocks on these bikes are known to fail. If you don't have a raptor petcock now might be a good time to try one. Cleaning the carb is good. Buying a "rebuild kit" from Amazon and throwing a bunch of parts that may or may not be correct for the LS650 is BAD.
3) The oil on the fins is likely from the "head plug" in the top of the head. It's a common and known issue. I wouldn't sweat it until you clear up your idling issues.
Not sure about the oil from the bottom. It could be oil or fuel depending on what else you find.
4) If you are wondering why I use quotation marks around the word "choke", it's because technically it's not a "choke" even though it does everything a "choke" does. Most people will let that slide on here be we have a lot of new users and I don't feel like being trolled. Not that any of the new users seem to be into that kind of stuff. lol
5) Someoe will try to tell you they never use the "choke" and that it's not needed. Fine but that doesn't mean you should do what they do.
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