Top view tells the same story. I reversed the wires going to the starter relay, and that helped a lot.
By now, battery is connected, carburettor is mounted with a #200 main jet and #20 idle jet, needle in the middle groove as delivered by Lancer.
Catch can is in the works.

Regarding the hole in the shaft, I like to think it is not just luck, but also a fair bit of skill   , combined with competent selection of tool. A reamer is the most dilligent tool in the machine shop, when it comes to producing a hole that meets strict demands to both dimension and surface finish.

I torqued the head down, shame on me, I fear this will cost me a head gasket, and the not unconsiderable hassle of cleaning Loctite 592 off the RR stud. I guess I had better start to adhere strictly to the WIMGA* rule. Frankly I am under the impression that others have already done this piston and cam conversion, so that if I just don't also throw bigger valves into the mix, I'd be safe. Deck height was eyeballed to 1.5mm, but due to liberal amounts of Redline assembly lube, I am not sure.


Will I absolutely have to do a clay test on the valve/piston clearance?
Has anyone here done the conversion already without experiencing catastrophical engine failiure?

I tend to work from my flaky memory, which is perhaps not such a good idea, since when I check on the durability of EPDM rubber, it is stated that apart from its many favourable durability properties, resistance to fuels and oil is not one of them. The isocyanate glue is used in the industry to make custom o-rings, by gluing lengths of rubber string together end to end, so I have little doubt about that it will endure fuel too.

But as I write this, I realize that I have lived my life without an intimate relationship with gasoline, and its property as a solvent, so I guess it is time to drop the assembly into a can of gas to see if it swells, cracks or gets slippery. If I could get hands on an HDPE elbow, I would take it. I have all sorts of thin glass fibre sheet, and I am already preparing for a second version of the boot with embedded longitudinal stringers to secure WOT performance. Don't want to risk the boot getting sucked in .
The nylon bolt and nut is there, and where it is, to be out of the way of the seat, but to offer something to grab, when I want to pull the elbow out of the boot.

Edit, after 4 hours semisubmerged in the drink, the boot has swollen from 75mm to 90mm, what a bummer. I need nitrile rubber  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrile_rubber. The polypropylene shows no signs of failure, but then I am positively biassed towards polypropylene due to it's superiour properties as a high frequency capacitor dielectric.


*What Is Mike Going to Ask

I have built a couple of flat-top piston engines, one with a 94mm, and one with a 97mm.

The 94mm engine had a Web 340b cam and heavy valve springs.  That cam has more lift and more overlap. The quench clearance was set up at .038". It had ample valve-to-piston clearance.

I used lead wire readings to verify the quench clearance.  Place appropriate feelers and strips of lead wire on the piston, install the head (without cam & rockers) with a used head gasket, tighten up the nuts, turn the engine through several turns, then disassemble and measure.  

Once you have the desired quench clearance, check the valve-to-piston clearance.  You mentioned that your visual estimation of your deck height was about 1.5 mm (.060").  This is a picture of my deck height on the 94mm build.  It was about -.010".

The stock head gasket compressed thickness should be right around .028", so you want the deck height to be around -.007" to -.012".  

The main reason I asked Lancer to make the flat-top pistons was to achieve this tight quench condition.  That design improves combustion and suppresses detonation.  The result is improved power and fuel economy.  The tradeoff is that engine assembly requires a lot more attention to detail.

You can see from this picture that on my 94mm engine I had ample clearance (radial & vertical) on the exhaust valves.  I suspect that since your cam has a lot less lift and duration you should have adequate clearance too (key words and phrases, "should").  

But there are all sorts of dimensions involved, and as you know, every dimension has a tolerance, and then there is the potential for dimensional changes due to prior work accomplished on a component (i.e. resurafcing).

On my 97mm flat-top build, instead of having a negative deck height, the piston stuck up past the deck.  It had +.005" deck height.  So, the base gasket had to be adjusted.

To correct the interference problem, I had to flycut the valve reliefs.