Check the fit on the new Sneezy release cam.  Slip it onto the shaft.  If it won’t go on the shaft, you might have to dress it up lightly with a jeweler’s file.  Remember, you want a tight fit.  Don’t get carried away with the jeweler’s file.  If it’s loose on the shaft, it can be shimmed a bit to tighten it up.  Let us know how it fits.  If it needs a shim, we can provide the details.

Once you are satisfied that the new release cam fits, you can reassemble the shaft into the cover.  You will want to replace the o-ring.  I suggest you stay away from generic o-rings unless you can get your hands on a metric item.  I’m sure you can probably find a SAE o-ring that will fit, but the cross section won’t be correct, and it will either leak or bind.  The o-ring is 1.9mm cross section x 6.8mm ID.

I suspect you will find installation of the release shaft quite a juggling act.  You must feed it through the cover, return spring, release cam, thrust shim, and lower bearing.  It might drive you nuts, but you will eventually get it installed.  Don’t forget a new cotter pin, and make sure the cotter pin doesn’t snag anything when you cycle the release arm.

Once you have removed the release bearing assembly, reinstall the bolts with large washers, like this.  I would put all four springs in there along with the temporary washers.  That will lock up the clutch and make it easier to break loose the large nut that secures the clutch hub to the input shaft.  Once you have the clutch locked up, you can bend over the lock plate behind the nut and break loose the nut.

Once the hub nut has been removed, you can pull the entire disk pack straight out.  You could also remove the entire clutch assembly if you want, but I prefer to remove the disk pack first, and then the basket.

Given the appearance (very dry) of your clutch pack, I think you should disassemble it and measure all the fibers and steels.  Would also be a good idea to inspect the running surfaces on the pressure disk and hub.  Post the measurements and some pictures.

I plead ignorance on your oil level bullseye.  I have no idea how it’s installed.  Hey Dave & Versy, is that thing pressed in and then sealed with silicone, or is that white stuff some sort of epoxy?  I imagine it could result in a terrible accident if it fell out.  Which direction is it installed, from the outside in, or from the inside out?

Looking forward to your next post.

Thanks Mike, Dave, Verslagen, and SurvivingPhilly!

Mike,
I didn’t set it at TDC for yesterday.  My main goal was to get the cover off and inspect the CCT and decide if I needed to buy a Verslavy CCT.  I got that accomplished and emailing with Verslagen about it.

Note: Getting the piece of dowel rod stuck in the cylinder may have been a blessing in disguise.  It forced me to pull the clutch cover and inspect the CCT and find it at 18mm.  

Q: What is the best tool to remove the c-clip on the CCT?  Pick, screw driver, needle nose plyers?  I don’t have anything fancier than that for this kind of thing.  I can just see the thing flying across the garage never to be found or down into the motor.

Mike, you mentioned a couple o-rings that I didn’t think about and buy when I bought all the other parts.  I need to make another list of needed parts.  Thanks for the clean up tip on the oil filter housing.  I didn’t notice that but the o-ring does look pretty tired and sketchy..

I’m with Verslagen about not popping out the oil check window.  I’ll clean it up with some isopropyl alcohol and q-tip (trying not to fog the glass with solvents), and apply some fresh Suzukibond around the perimeter.

Today’s to-do list is short.  Prove I can find TDC (without Woody) and then fumble around with the clutch release arm, and if ok, install the Sneeze cam release.  I need to check that o-ring and rod for wear and see if I need a new part.  Can’t be too expensive.

I did buy a Suzuki OEM cover gasket.  I saw some cheap ones online, but coughed up the $$ for an OEM.

I’m still intimidated by the clutch pack assembly.  I need to think about all that more.  As noted in Oldfeller’s posts, nobody has worn out the fiber discs and plates.  My main concern is glazing and warping.  They are pretty dry as they got bathed in an oil/gas mixture due to carb flooding.

Beautiful day for a ride in Houston today.  I think I need some fresh air!  

Thanks again, Guys!!

ThumperPaul wrote on 12/17/23 at 07:50:02:


Those 4 springs are holding the clutch plates together and prevent them from mowing/slipping/sliding/turning........the only way the clutch can be released is by pushing that clutch rod against the springs and spreading the plates apart.

Being in neutral has no affect on the clutch - they are not connected in any way. Neutral disconnects the input and output shaft of the transmission so that the shafts can turn independently of each other.

It should not be hard for you to find neutral.....does the little green light work when the key is turned on?

Stock clutch release arm assembly before pics.