Bike won't start.  I'm going through the usual steps and wondering if I'm missing something obvious.

Background - It started about 8 days ago before we hit a cold spell for Houston.  When it started, but I forgot to open the petcock valve and the bike died about 2 houses down the street.  Realizing my mistake, I open the petcock and give it 10-15 seconds to get some gas to the carb.  Hit the starter button, and it just gave a weak groan at the starter.  Tried again and no cranking.  Lights come on and decomp clicks.

Push it home.  Pull the battery and test.  Reading 12.6 volts.  Ok, should be enough right...?  Put it on the battery tender overnight and decided not to think about it anymore for the day.  Overnight it only charged up to 12.9V.  I'm used to seeing something like 13.3-13.4 fresh off the charger with it dropping to something like 12.8-12.9 after resting for 15-20 minutes.  Take the battery to AutoZone and sure enough - dead cell.  So, I buy a new battery on Amazon suspecting I've found the problem.  Install the next day, and the bike still wouldn't start.  Now I'm suspecting the starter solenoid, as I really couldn't hear it click after the decomp.  The timing is almost exactly when the louder decomp makes it's noise.  

So, I buy a new starter solenoid and install today.  Bike still won't start.  Bought new back probes (old ones were toast) and the solenoid tests out fine.

Test the starter next, right?  What else could it be?  Connections all seem good from battery, to solenoid, to starter.

I'm losing my patience with this bike and getting annoyed.  Needing some thoughts and encouraging words and ideas.  Thanks.

How did you determine that the starter is fried?  Is it burnt up or discolored?  Got any pics?

Mike, with the battery disconnected, I removed the starter.  Put it in the bench vise.  Using jumper cables, I connected it to a good motorcycle battery I keep charged on the bench.  Connected the negative to the body of the starter in the area of the  mounting holes.  Connected the positive to the terminal post on the starter.  Absolutely nothing.  I’m going to dissect the starter today and see what I can find.

I’ve already ordered a new aftermarket starter off Amazon ($70).  OEM is like $300+.

I have a video of the prior owner trying to start the bike (it’s painful to watch).  I suspect the PO tried to crank too many times, too long, no resting between attempts, and using a tired battery with a dead cell, and the decomp deleted/non-existent on the bike.  That’s my theory.  I think I just got lucky with the 3 starts I got out of the bike after the head R&R and other fixes.

I have seen posted threads on this forum where the owners have run the starter too long - and the adhesive holding the magnets in place has let go.  The magnets then contact the rotor and make a mess.

If you have the later style with the electric connection in the aluminum end - Take the gear end off first, then slide the rotor and electric end out the other side.  The magnet makes the rotor want to stay inside.....just push it out.

If you have the early style with the white plastic insulator in the round housing - that insulator will have to slide out with the end cap as the wires are all interconnected.

My bad.  I think I have the later style in an aftermarket part.  Brain couldn't remember where the connection was located exactly.

Could be aftermarket....all of the ones I have have a silver painted round body (not shiny plating).


You should be able to tap the gear end plate and get it to come off - the gear end should have the same O ring seal and just be a loose fit.  If the rotor does not move or turn...maybe a magnet is loose and wedged between the rotor and body.

I took one apart for you!  (I need to clean it up and paint it for use on the Retro Thumper).

Not a very good photo, but I don't see anything unusual from what I can see.  Must be down in the guts...