HI, having had a look through the topics etc on the forum I don't really seem to be able to find much in the way of reference to machines running hot - maybe its me, if so apologies in advance.

I've managed to acquire a 1996/7 Savage, tbh I'm not sure of its origin and I was told when I purchased it from a private seller that it was an import, supposedly from New Zealand.

I've had to do some mods to the controls to allow me to ride it - I'm an amputee, but they are purely mechanical linkages etc.

I've only been able to ride the bike once as I'm rather concerned about how hot it gets - there's also evidence of heat build up in the past as the tank rubbers seem melted somewhat! (Hopefully pic attached)

Initially, I assumed it was due to a dirty carburettor etc. So I stripped the carb down and gave it all a good clean, I replaced some items for new, others were cleaned and the put back.  Having also done an oil change, making sure that the filter was in the correct way around and that both the seals were in place, I checked the air filter - clean, although it has a lingering smell of petrol. For want of anything better to do, I also changed the spark plug.  I may have very slightly over filled the oil, but I've never known that to cause an major problem like this in the past.

To put things in perspective, the spark plug is coming out of the bike with a tan/grey dusting, which looks okay to me. But in reality the bike was so hot after only riding it just one mile, it was impossible to put your hand on the end can!

I do have a Clymer Manual and a Suzuki Workshop manual, which I have been following.  I also managed to get hold of a parts book too, which has been useful for exploded diagrams etc.

So, I accept that the bikes are going run physically hotter than I'm used to, but just what is 'normal'?  If anybody has any suggestions I'd appreciate the feedback.

As an additional, I've got some T6 oil coming and will do an oil and filter change when it arrives.

Ride Safe All. TCF.

Thank you for the pointer ref the air screw mixture - as it is, I've set it as per the manual, so I may just wind it out a bit more and assess things then.  

The bike has indications of being worked on in the past, and I am beginning to wonder if its had a replacement cam chain and that the timing may be out as well.....

Ride Safe. TCF

Hi Paul,  thank you for the welcome

I get where you are coming from ref the tank mounts, but I do think its heat related......

The bike has only been ridden twice so far, once by me and once by a buddy.  On both occasions the bike exhaust got extremely hot.  I rode the bike approx 1 mile at urban speeds and by the time I returned to my home the exhaust end can (muffler) was so hot you could literally boil a can of water on it!  I have noticed that many owners wrap their down pipes in heat proof material, which is what I intend to do eventually.

No I'm not letting the bike sit at idle either, imho that doesn't do any engine a lot of good!

I will, as suggested turn the idle up to boost oil pressure.

The spark plug is the correct one for the bike, and its brand new.  As I mentioned in an earlier message, there's evidence of previous 'work' on the engine etc so maybe its going to have to be a rip down and check to make sure its set up correctly, without blockages in the oil paths, oil pump and the timing is right....... Deep joy

What is the jetting setup on your carb ?
Is it a CV or something else, what jets are in it, what is the position of the pilot adjustment screw ?
If it’s running lean, that can lend to heating things up.

TCF wrote on 03/07/25 at 08:34:08:


hot tail pipe is not unusual for a savage, they are known to glow red after a ride.  

tell lancer what carb you have and what jets

another thing that can cause the bike to run hot is if it has the wrong rotor. this will throw the timing off, very hard to tell if it is though.

and tail pipe heat shouldn't be a major concern, if you can't put your gloved hand on the cylinder or if it's so hot you can't keep your feet on the pegs then it's time pull over and shut it off.

Thank you all for your feedback.  Its been really useful.

Some further investigation and decision making has been made.

Unfortunately, despite my best efforts I can not find any markings on the carb, which is annoying to say the least.  Without removing it again, I don't know what the jettings are (yes, I know, I should've noted them down when it was apart!!) - Lesson learned.

I've also done a compression test, which peaked out at 120 psi - which isn't good.  Before I let myself get carried away, I'm going to do a valve train set up and run the test again.

All duly noted about the exhausts getting hot, for what its worth I'll pull the end can off, and the down pipe, and double check for blockages etc.

Further updates later, once I have found an 'S' shaped 10mm spanner to get into the rocker box covers......

Ride Safe All.

Lin - TCF

The thing that's always puzzled me is how the CA model (and similar European) for 1997-2004 is setup so much leaner.

A) #125 Main Jet VS #145
B) #47.5 Pilot Jet VS #52.5
C) And the bigger 52.5PJ is set at 3 turns out (richer) vs 47.5PJ at 1.75 turns out (leaner).  This one is particularly weird.  Seems like the CA/European models would be COOKING at idle.

Can't really see what's happening with the Main Air Jet, Needle Jet, and Jet Needle.

I've come to agree with Dave that a #150MJ and #50PJ (or maybe a #52.5) is a good starting point for a stock motor and maybe a somewhat free-er flowing exhaust (like a HD Dyna muffler).  

But for a CA/European model and not knowing the main air jet, needle jet, and jet needle, it's hard to say what a good sized Main Jet should be without swapping out those items to match the standard USA version.  Maybe one of our European members or someone else knows.

You have plenty of people helping - so I won' jump in and add another.

However - I am a bit skeptical about heat doing the damage to the fuel tank cushions.  The frame and fuel tank will carry away heat in quick order - the fuel in the tank also works to keep the heat under control.

If the heat in the cushion area was hot enough to melt the cushions - why is the plastic coating on the clutch and throttle cables and electric wiring still good?  Also the ignition coil, plastic turn signal relay, etc. would also be cooked?

Getting a temperature gauge on the head would help - or even an infrared thermometer that you could use to "point and shoot" to obtain temperatures at various engine parts.  

https://www.amazon.com/RunLeader-RL-TM004-Temperature-Thermometer-Snowmobile/...

https://www.amazon.com/Trail-Tech-742-ET1-Temperature-Digital/dp/B071HKW8R9?s...

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00...