The “white spacer” has been shaved down to .076”, which raises the needle .037” (more rich).  A stock spacer is .113”.  Shaving down the white spacer is a typical tuning mod on the LS650, so it’s not unusual to find a thinner spacer.

The air-bleed jets in the top of the carb are correct.  PJ1 is #45, PJ2 is #230.  Both jets were checked with pin gages to verify that they weren’t drilled out.

The float bowl was crusty rusty.  Looks like water has been in here.

When you remove the float pin, it’s best to support the post.  I have broken a post.  The little pin is a slight press fit, and it’s easy to break a post when you drive the pin out.  I use a long piece of brass tubing to buck up the post before I drive the pin out.

The float level was too low (33mm vs 28mm).

The spring-loaded pin in the needle was frozen.  It was completely ineffective.  That’s gotta go.

The needle seat was not captured.  The retainer plate and screw were missing.

The mineral spirits puked out of the main air bleed and dribbled down the carb.  This leaky needle & seat would certainly exacerbate an overly rich condition.  Glad I didn’t try to run this thing as-is, fire hazard for sure.

Looks to me like we have the Niagara Falls of fuel delivery.  I think the way to fix this turkey is to:

-Install an OEM needle jet

-Install an OEM slide needle

-Replace the float needle & seat

-Install a float seat retainer and screw

-Adjust the float level

-Manufacture a custom idle mixture screw

-Machine the carb body to accept the custom idle mixture screw


We can do this.  Best to start by fixing up the leaky float needle & seat, and installing a good OEM needle jet and slide needle.  Let’s see how it works with those big problems fixed.  Then we will know if it is salvageable.

I installed a new float needle and seat from an aftermarket overhaul kit.  They are all yours ThumperLife, gratis.  I readjusted the float level to 28mm.  The subsequent mineral spirits test was satisfactory, 5 minutes, no leakage.

I temporarily installed my OEM needle jet and slide needle.  Rather than fiddle around with the spacer, I left my .065” spacer on the needle.  The OEM needle only has one groove, so no need to ponder which groove to put the eClip in.  If the carb works good, we know that new OEM parts will fix the problem.  I will take my parts out after the test.

I set the bogus mixture screw at 1.5 turns, and jacked the idle speed way up.

Let’s see how it works.  This video is proof of life.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYQntw1ahBQ