Autif wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:07:



Whoa...don't know where to start with all this, but I'll give it a shot since I too have a 2000.

First, people confuse a K&N Pod and an Insert filter, and I'm not sure which one you mean.  If either of those is what you plan to change with EVERYTHING else remaining STOCK....NO jetting is REQUIRED.  Why?  Because those filters won't change the overall airflow with a stock exhaust pipe and muffler.  The pipe is where the bottleneck is.

However, if you want to change the backfires, change the jets anyway....as discussed in other posts on this forum.  Get a #150 or #152.5 main jet and fix the idle screw mixture....see the topic about "Backfiring".

NOW....if you want your 2000 to be setup like mine with a K&N Pod filter and a SuperTrapp or Jardine exhaust then you will want to get a 152.5 main.  If you decide to go with a Pod and a Raask, you'll want a #155 (maybe even a #157.5, like I plan on getting next winter)

So, since I know that a stock 2000 tends to fart, go ahead and get the #152.5 to fix that, and then you'll be ready for the Jardine.

The K&N filter, in any case, is better than stock because it is reuseable...you can't clean the stock one.

Hope that helps.

Interesting! Thanks for the info Greg!

What about the adjusting the idling speed? Will that be required when I do just the air filter element? What about when I install the Supertrapp exhaust?

Autif wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:07:


Changing the air filter probably won't do much, but the Trapp might....it is simple anyway.  On the left side.

If you richen the main jet, it has little effect on idle speed.  It only effects the top half of the throttle range.

tekxtc wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:12:


Take a look in the Tech Corner at the topic concerning Carb Specs.  You'll find pictures already there.  Hope that helps.

PS - the tech corner isn't intended to be a place to post questions....it is supposed to be a reference section.

tekxtc wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:12:
In a nutshell, I believe the following to be true... but then I'm an amateur, so take it for what you paid for it.

1)  The main jet is accessed by removing the float bowl (bottom).  There are four screws.  Access to some of them is difficult and will require an offset screwdriver.  It may require removal of the carb if the screws are locked but mine didn't.  Replacing these with stainless allen screws will make subsequent removals easier.

2)  The seat and tank will need to be removed to access the needle through the top of the carb.  The needle does not need to be replaced but the Dynojet kit's needle does offer several notches for adjusting the position.  The stock needle does not.  If you use the stoock needle, it is recommended that you replace the white nylon spacer with a stainless washer of roughly 1/3 to 1/2 the thickness of the original (or file the original down to accomplish the same thing).  If you use the DJ needle, you can use the 4th notch from the end and use the original white nylon spacer.  Also replace the top four access screws with stainless allen screws.

3)  You will need to adjust the idle mixture and there are a number of threads both on this board and on Bert Heise's board (where you originally posted these questions) with advice on this.  I believe the mixture varies quite a bit between bikes so it's largely subjective.  I say to go for what sounds and feels right to you but adjust it after the bike has warmed up.

Anyone else, please feel free to add to this or correct me.

Could You tell this English man, what is a channel lock, thanks.

Clive W  

Sorry still no sure, would they be vice grips  ???

Clive W