I was a bodyman for 3 years. I have the tools.I would need a Brad tool, that welds a brass tack to the tank, then pull on that to get the wrinkles out. I am still rasslin the Honda, of the 10 head bolt holes, 9 require a tap & findiong the tap has become a bit of a mystery. The one a machinist handed me just doesnt feel right. the one good hole that the new bolts run in freely wont allow the tap to run in, so I have to make certain I have the right one. I dont think I do.

So, if you arent in a hurry, let me get this car running, then, I'll do it.
The big expenses are  tool rental, bondo, primer & sand paper & freight. I'll do the work for plenty cheap.Ill start looking at the tool rental & bondo & sandpaper costs & a can of spray primer is cheap. The painters would sometimes reject bodywork & send it back to the bodyman to redo. Mine was never sent back.


Since that is a gas tank, & since the brad welder does get the metal red hot, am I gonna get blown up? Is there a way to air it out & make it safe? Surely a few days of being open it would air out, wouldnt it?

OOOPS,,,I see a hard crease & the paint is ground off, the 2 dents that are together on the about 9 oclock position, then, there is a dent,running up & right, right where that dent connects to the upper dent of the 2 dents at 9 oclock, there is a place that is folded pretty hard. How thin did the metal get ground at the peak of that fold? It may crack when it gets pulled out. It looks like the grinder got a little carried away in that spot. That may require some brazing. I guess a tank can be brazed & not leak there. Ive never messed with fuel tanks.

IF brazing will work, I can drill & use the old method of a dent puller & avoid the cost of renting a machine & buting the brads. I can get it brazed ( if its safe & will work) for little $ & an 90 mile round trip. It will look like new, for sure. I did the bodywork on an oilfield Mack truck & as hard as it bounced down the road, none of the mud ever cracked or flaked off. It had been sandblasted using industrial abrasive & was warped from end to end. It took 6 gallons of mud to solve that & 6 weeks.

Dude, you MUST wash out the tank very ,very well with a cleaning solvent first (mineral spirits will work) followed by at least 3-4 flushings with a quality grade soap cleanser(i use "purple stuff" ) or the tank will explode the second you put the stud gun to it!!! You can also run your car exhaust pipe into it for a few minutes to neutralize  the combustable fumes. I don't care how long the tank has sat empty and"aired out",it will blow!! Take my word for it,i have welded,cut,fabbed and modified more gas tanks than there are days in a year.... Please don't use a dent puller on it,it leaves little "volcano holes in it that then must be welded up(MIG or TIG will both work) and basically makes a butcher job out of it. Hope this helps....K.J. P.S I have been a bodyman/painter/fabricator for over 30 years.Also keep in mind that jap bike tanks are very thin (approx. 24 gauge ) and are quite difficult to weld properly. Thats where a TIG welder comes in handy.Later....

well,,I wish I had a junk tank to mess with. I sure dont want to Create one, using Sluggo's tank to start from.

Kinda snotty there KJ,,

Hey, we are all online. HOW SWEET!

Aaaaaw KJ are you stirring up the Savages again ?  

I really didn't want to start a pi$$ing match here, i just need the job done well and i trust usz guyz more than anybody here in town.

as for how much, somewhere between dyi and wholesale? tell me what ya need. i can live without it, but it sure would be nice to have it done this season.

now  i do have another practice tank. but bike fixer gave me a way to blow it up real good, and ya know me... any thing for a big bang.