I've never heard of a torque cone before. You learn something every day. Thanks Rylee.
If you considered doing a straight drag pipe like you can see on the Blue Collar Bobbers savage, you could use one of these kind of things:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-1-2-x-8-UNIVERSAL-MOTORCYCLE-BIKE-CAR-CHROME-EXH...
My mate had an iron head sportster with straight pipes and these just took the edge off the noise a little and made enough back pressure for it to run ok. Still a pile, tho.

I imagine you are also a member on chopcult, but if not, dfinnegan is also on our site posting occasionally about his build.

Here is the link...
http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34440

And a couple of pics that might give you a new idea or two...

@Lancer. You are correct I do not wanna run straight pipes. I do however want to build a minimalistic exhaust that is baffled properly for the savage.
Unfortunately there is no bolt on application other than what is currently on the bike offered by RYCA. The issue is the hard tail kit bolts up directly under the oil view window which is in the original exhaust systems path. To get around this I can take the stock system an add length to the down turn that runs between the clutch cover and foot controls thus allowing me to get under the hard tails tubing. Issue there is now I'm running exhaust pipe below the lowest point of the bike which isn't very far from the ground to begin with.

Other option is to use the existing RYCA header and turn down the back side of the clutch cover towards the ground and bias cut the end outward. Both of these options create an issue of not enough "straight" length to insert a baffle. That's why I've been looking at alternative options such as torque cones.

I've seen packing and a crumb cup used to create baffled/back pressured systems and will look into that some more but it's still a bandaid.

I'm sick of burning holes in the underside of my pants legs on long rides or while dealing with traffic around town when she gets hot. I've wrapped the muffler on it now as far back as I could and it's helped a lot but it's not a fix.

verslagen1 wrote on 03/25/15 at 10:28:54:


Routing it away from my leg is the plan. I'm just running into the issue of how to properly baffle a short system that's gonna be more bend than straight from start to finish.

Ok so we've established heat shields and wrapping the exhaust will cut down on heat. Not what the topic was originally started for though. I'm not trying to cut down on heat from the existing exhaust I want to relocate it all together. The muffler is inches away from my thigh and no amount of heat shield or wrap is going to prevent the heat created from being a bother. I started this topic to get some insight into proper baffling custom exhaust. I'm not gonna be able to buy a slip on. There's no system other than what RYCA provides for the bobber build. It's going to have to be custom. So it's going to need baffling because I can not nor do I want to run straight pipes.

@EJID ya that though ran through my mind. The current reverse cone that's on there is 21" in length. The "short" version is 17" and though it may work length wise I'm not sure I could do it without kicking it out a little to clear the hard tail tubing on the bottom.

That idea was pretty much what I wanted to do but with just pipe. RYCA sells a DIY tube kit I was gonna grab since I have welding equipment t but not a bender. I bought some flexible exhaust pipe from the auto parts store for a mock up to see if I could clear everything and it fit in nicely. I just can't for the life of me figure out how to properly baffle for sound and backpressure. Samson offers baffles in 4,6,8" lengths and I can possibly fit a 6" in the straight section of the header before it will make the turn down the back side of the clutch cover to exit. I guess I'm just gonna have to make a few mock ups with cheapo pipe from the auto parts store with varying baffle lengths and see what works